tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-92013002767661086332024-03-13T14:27:43.202+00:00The View From The PierAn independent blog looking at ethical fashion, sweatshops, organics, sustainability, charity and the third sector.
The world of apparel and its worldwide impact, mixed with articles about fundraising and charities.
Written and produced by Rob Wickings.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger748125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-53403620121491294722017-05-15T11:00:00.000+01:002017-05-15T11:00:19.746+01:00Defending JawsOur relationship to the animal kingdom is a strange one. We like to feel that we care for the creatures that share our world. People often talk about how their pets are akin to friends or family. That is, of course, as long as we consider them to be cute and cuddly, and that's less clear cut than it might at first appear. Spiders and lizards may not be to everyone's taste, but they definitely have their fan-base.<div>Pity the poor shark, then. A supremely well-adapted predator that has become synonymous in the human mind with pitiless, unthinking aggression. Blame Peter Benchley and Steven Spielberg, who forever imprinted the fear of the fin in our minds. </div><div><br></div><div>With that fear, of course, comes aggression. We kill millions of sharks every year with a gleeful and un-necessary cruelty. The so-called delicacy of sharks-fin soup comes with a built-in cost–the dorsal fin is sliced off while the shark is still alive, before the poor creature is dumped back into the sea to suffer a long and painful death. It's the equivalent of killing an elephant for its tusks. If that's beyond the pale now, then surely we can do the same for the shark!</div><div>Our pals at marine charity <a href="https://youtu.be/eOTRDMXbsug" id="id_3b5d_5bbc_f335_fb9" target="_blank">Bite-Back</a> have long campaigned against the mistreatment of sharks. Recently, founder Graham Buckingham was invited to speak at TedX, and his passionate defence of probably the most unfairly maligned creature on the planet is well worth fifteen minutes of your time. If you like sharks–and especially if you <i>don't</i>–this is essential viewing. </div><div><br></div><div><br><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eOTRDMXbsug" width="500" height="281" id="y_id_42d8_1731_1b7c_9643" frameborder="0"></iframe><br></div>Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-63592815784588149422017-03-03T10:30:00.000+00:002017-03-03T10:30:32.505+00:00A Day At Printwear Live!Ten o'clock on a Sunday morning, when all right-thinking people are contemplating a second coffee and a bite of breakfast. So, why then did I find myself...here?<br />
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What madness is this? Wait, though, there's a clue, way off there in the distance. Time to do a CSI-style zoom and enhance...<br />
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Aha, now <i>that</i> makes a bit more sense. Guru Ian dragged me and Pier Mascot Ali along to Printwear Live. It's the one point of contact in the year for the clothes customisation industry to meet, network and maybe do a little business. All the big distributors and brands are here, so it's important for Pier32 to get in and touch base.<br />
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Hall 20 at the NEC (for yes, readers, we were on the outskirts of Birmingham, the Midland's shining jewel) is stuffed to the gunwales with huge stalls and marquees, offering a ton of new clothing ranges and customisation technology. We were all pleased to see that organics made a strong showing this year. Well, we would be. It's how we roll.<br />
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So a visit to Stanley Stella would always be first on the agenda. A new kid on the block, they've gone all out for organic and sustainable fabrics. But they also have a keen eye on modern trends and designs.<br />
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I was especially taken with the tops made from Modal–a silky, luxurious fabric that's made from birch. It holds colour for longer than cotton and keeps that colour more intensely.<br />
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Ian also pointed out a clever design detail on a lot of clothes designed for the customisation market. Size tabs are offset from the centre of the collar or area designed to rip out, allowing you to put your own branding on the item. Neat thinking.<br />
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Another must-stop on the tour was Continental, who while independent are still able to make a big noise against the conglomos at the front of the hall. Their commitment to ethical and sustainable ranges has always made them a favourite here at The Pier. Their Salvage (made from recycled fibre) and Fair Share (paying above market price to the workers that make the clothes) ranges are tremendously popular with our clients. It helps that they've been pals of ours for years, of course!<br />
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It's always fun to wander a show and just soak up the weird and wonderful sights. If, like me, this is your first time at a particular show, there can be some real surprises. Take, for example, the guys at Oku, who had an honest-to-Betsy <i><b>eagle</b></i> on their stand...<br />
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Or the full-on, properly choreographed street-dance fashion shows that featured clothes from brands like Regatta and Trespass - you know, the mid-range brands you'd normally see halfway round the Snake Pass or in a tea shop somewhere in the Dales...<br />
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(OK, and AWDI, who do know their street wear).<br />
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A real eye-opener for me were the robot embroidery machines. Feed art in one end, and they'll kick into life and stitch that design onto pretty much anything. The end results can be insanely complex.<br />
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It was, to be honest, a pretty overwhelming day with lots to see and do. Guru Ian was in his element and walked away carrying his own body weight in brochures and giveaways. New trends for the coming season? Look out for retro styles that harken back to the 80s, with contrast-colours on sleeves and collars.<br />
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But the real big thing will be hexoflage–camo styles overlaid with a hexagonal grid in hot colours. Imagine future military livery. Blend in? No chance. This is the sort of colourway you slather over your Titanfall custom loadout before you stomp off to frag alien hordes.<br />
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A madcap day, then, but I walked away with a few treats (including a bottle of prosecco in a raffle–thank you, Pencarrie!) and a renewed respect for the complexity of the industry into which I dangle my writerly toes.<br />
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There are worse ways to spend a Sunday, that's for sure.Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-56999853234339530342017-01-30T11:14:00.001+00:002017-01-30T11:14:41.075+00:00The True Cost Of Britain's Cheap ClothesIt's easy to look at the abuses of garment workers in developing economies and shake our heads, blaming the problems on cultural differences and misunderstandings over the average wage packet. It's not right, but it's easy. <br /><br />However, when those same abuses are happening on our own doorstep, it's much more difficult to shrug and turn away.<br /><br />We've all seen the stories that crop up every Christmas, of the big online retailers treating their employees and temp staff like cattle or machines during the festive crunch. Amazon always gets a kicking in the press in December. But we're starting to see poor or downright dangerous working conditions, forced overtime and low pay migrating to many UK-based brand names, such as Sports Direct.<br /><br />An exposé in Channel 4's documentary stream Dispatches shows that worryingly, this trend is growing. Undercover footage in factories that were producing garments for high street stores like New Look and online brands like Missguided and Boohoo both showed worryingly lax safety standards and a decidedly cavalier approach towards the National Living Wage.<br /><br />Belal, an undercover reporter for Dispatches, was paid a mere £3 per hour to label and barcode clothes for Fashion Square, a factory producing clothes for River Island–£4.20 less than the advised minimum. When he challenged the owner of the factory, the response was surprising...<br /><br /><blockquote>Boss: How much do you get paid in London?<br />Belal: It depends where you’re working.<br />Boss: That’s why I’ve asked to see you. You won’t get paid as much as that for the work you’re doing here.<br />Belal: I spoke to, and he said he’ll let me know how much he’ll pay me after he’s seen my work.<br />Boss: Yes, yes. That’s what I’m trying to tell you. What were you paid in London?<br />Belal: I got at least £7.20.<br />Boss: You won’t get that here. That’s what I’m telling you. We don’t get paid much for our clothes, and we need to compete with China and Bangladesh.They can get it cheap there. How will they get it made cheaper here? If we pay everyone £10 or £6 then we will make a loss.<br />Belal: You are comparing it with Bangladesh and places like that?<br />Boss: Yes, yes, yes. This is the situation.</blockquote><br /><br />Belal also ran shifts at United Creations Ltd, a factory contracted to make clothes for online retailers BooHoo and Missguided. Here again, he was paid less than £4 per hour. More worryingly, the working conditions were considered incredibly dangerous by safety expert Richard Lloyd. Flammable materials were stacked close to hot machinery, and there was even footage of a worker smoking on the factory floor. Lloyd said:<br /><br /><blockquote>“What people don’t appreciate is that fires happen very very rapidly, there’s a smoke build up, there’s a low ceiling, the people are partly panicking and the doors open the wrong way anyway.”</blockquote><br /><br />The show is a terrifying eye-opener to the conditions to which garment workers are exposed in the rush for fast fashion profit. It's becoming clear that abuses of a vulnerable workforce are not confined to the developing world–they're happening on our streets too.<br /><br />The second show in the strand is screening tonight at 8pm on Channel Four. This first episode is available to stream or download via catch-up services, or through channel4.com.<br /><br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-49878370734490265352017-01-23T08:50:00.001+00:002017-01-23T08:50:40.764+00:00Living Lagom with Hubbub!<div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; box-sizing: border-box; color: #1a1a1a; font-family: NittiGrotesk, Keyboard, sans-serif; font-size: 13.600000381469727px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;">
Exciting news from our pals at Hubbub, who are taking a leap into the unknown. They're launching a vlogging channel that will deal with all things sustainable–and they need your help!</div>
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The new channel, fronted by Sarah Duvall, will be looking at the way simple changes can bring you closer to a sustainable lifestyle. This has extra benefits, of course–not least saving money, which is something I think we can all get behind in these cold dark weeks before the February payday.</div>
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The keyword for the blog is <em style="box-sizing: border-box;">lagom</em>–another one of those Swedish terms that we seem to be falling for. It means 'just enough'. In practice, the <em style="box-sizing: border-box;">lagom</em> life entails finding a balance between too much and not enough. Obvious, and surprisingly easy to achieve by making small lifestyle changes. Like making your own lunches from extra portions of dinner, or changing your lights over to energy-saving LEDs. Marginal gains that over the course of a year can save you hundreds of pounds, and make you happier and healthier as well!</div>
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So where do you come in? Well, as I said, this is a new venture, and the Hubbub guys need all the feedback they can get. If there's a story they should be covering, or if the approach doesn't quite fit, they'd like to know. So why not subscribe, join in the conversation and get involved? Check out the first video below, and see how <em style="box-sizing: border-box;">lagom</em> can work for you.</div>
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Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-26913226082652617742017-01-13T13:40:00.001+00:002017-01-13T13:40:48.897+00:00Growing The Skills For Organic Farming In IndiaThe move towards organic farming of textile crops has to be applauded, but so far it has been a slow process. The problem, particularly in the cotton fields of India, is in retraining farmers that only know how to grow using pesticides. <br /><br />Education, as ever, is the key. So it's heartening to see the C&A Foundation focussing on empowerment of organic farming in the heartlands of the discipline - the state of Madhya Pradesh. Here, over a quarter of the world's organic cotton is grown. It makes sense, then, that educators should be based here. <br /><br />In November 2015, a new chapter was unveiled in the history of one of India's premier agriculture universities - the Jawaharlal Nehru Krishi Vishwa Vidyalaya. A three month programme aims to give educators the skills they need to pass on to the farmers of Madhya Pradesh the ability to change over to organic cultivation. The course integrates practical and theoretical modules, as well as industry exposure. <br /><br />Ipshita Sinha, of C&A Foundation, says: <blockquote>“We've found a great champion in the university, which is putting in some serious effort in driving this course, as well as a great champion in the state government, which is very keen on developing organic farming in the region."</blockquote><br /><br />Putting the focus on organic farming in India is a slow process, but it's great to see industry, government and NGOs working together to make it happen. Today Madhya Pradesh, tomorrow the world? <br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-34059304992945337502017-01-12T13:40:00.001+00:002017-01-12T13:40:21.802+00:00The Six Items Challenge - Join The Fashion Fast!You know how it is. You have a wardrobe absolutely stuffed with clothes and yet somehow you always end up wearing the same stuff. Those go-to items that fit and feel the way you like. Your signature look. <br /><br />What if that situation was a pledge you could make to help out other people? Could you, if it absolutely came down to it, spend six weeks in just six items of clothing? <br /><br />That's the challenge that Labour Behind The Label are issuing to raise funds this spring, while kicking back at the demon of fast fashion. We're consuming more and more, while paying less and less. Cheap clothing promotes waste and enables the exploitation of the workers who are forced to work to punishing deadlines. By choosing to not buy clothes we don't need, we can make a stand. The Six Item Challenge is a fashion fast against fast fashion. <br /><br />Now, don't panic. A pair of shoes is not going to constitute two items. Undies, accessories and footwear are exempt, as is active and sporting wear. This is not the Sack-Cloth And Ashes Challenge. Labour Behind The Label are asking you to think carefully about a capsule wardrobe, and how the same item can be used in different settings - from work to play to party. Which, to be frank, is a useful skill to learn. <br /><br />Are you game? If so, hit up the link below to sign up. The Challenge will take place during Lent (that's March 1st to 24th April for you non-churchy types) so you have plenty of time to sort out your super six items. <br /><br />Go lean with your clothing choices this spring. It might just train your brain into new ways of looking at your wardrobe. <br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://labourbehindthelabel.org/get-involved/fundraise-for-us/the-six-items-challenge/">http://labourbehindthelabel.org/get-involved/fundraise-for-us/the-six-items-challenge/</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-44258166284061576772017-01-11T14:01:00.001+00:002017-01-11T14:01:00.645+00:00A Sustainable New Year From SelfridgesYou may recall that this time last year Selfridge's flagship London store gave over its iconic window display to sustainable fashion. The Bright New Things promotion sought to highlight emerging designers and the work they were doing to support sustainability.<br /><br />For 2017, they're at it again, with a whole new range of designers–and a clever hook to show just how broad a church the field has become. Material World takes eight different fibres and fabrics, and presents designers that are doing fascinating and innovative work with them. <br /><br />For example, leather is represented by Swedish brand Deadwood. They specialise in recycling, taking inspiration from vintage styles to come up with a new take on an old classic: the leather jacket. Showing respect for the material while exploring the possibilities of its durability are good, strong ticks against a sustainability checklist. <br /><br />On the subject of thinking laterally, Tengri, representing luxury fibres, have come up with a new twist on the usual suspects. Cashmere and angora have come under fire over the past few years with accusations of animal cruelty and over-farming of pastureland. Instead, founder Nancy Johnston has discovered the incredibly soft fibres of the Mongolian yak pelt have a decidedly luxurious feel. She calls the resultant fabric <i>yakshmere</i>, and it needs to be felt to be believed. <br /><br />Material World is all about taking on the challenges we face in using the world's most popular fabrics and fibres, treating them with respect and finding innovative new ways that are less cruel, greedy or polluting. There are some really interesting ideas on display in the windows of Selfridges right now until the end of March. If you're in the area, go and check them out. <br /><br />Or just have a look at the collection via the Selfridges Material World site <a target="_blank" href="http://www.selfridges.com/GB/en/content/article/materials/?cm_sp=Feature-_-materialWorld-_-materials-CTA">here</a>. <br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-66636835942633152412017-01-06T08:26:00.001+00:002017-01-06T08:26:33.209+00:00How Chuck Gave It All AwayWe spoke yesterday about Ken Townsley, businessman and philanthropist who has dropped a fair chunk of his fortune on deserving causes in his home town of Blackpool. We've all heard stories of powerful figures bestowing their largesse on the needy, for reasons that run from common goodness to the need to appear generous while enjoying the tax benefits that charitable donations bring. <br /><br />But up until very recently, the most generous donor of them all remained resolutely anonymous, choosing to let his money do the talking. Now, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/05/nyregion/james-bond-of-philanthropy-gives-away-the-last-of-his-fortune.html?smid=tw-nytimes&smtyp=cur&_r=0">as The New York Times reports</a>, Charles F. Feeney has finally come out of the shadows. The reason? His work is done. He's given away all but the tiniest fraction of a considerable fortune. <br /><br />Charles' history reads like a slightly overheated airport blockbuster. A New Jersey boy, he served in the Air Force during WW2, before setting up a duty-free business to airports in 1960. That business would make him a billionaire. But Charles was never one for expensive living. As he put it, "you can only wear one pair of pants at a time." His tastes ran to burgers and a beer at his local pub, rather than fine dining in gilded restaurants. <br /><br />And from the beginning, he knew what he wanted to do with his fortune. Consider: over the last forty years he has paid for over 1,000 buildings across five continents, including schools, hospitals and scientific research establishments. His network of charitable foundations has done an extraordinary amount of good, and given away an extraordinary amount of money. Charles F. Feeney is down to his last couple of million dollars, handing over a fortune–$8billion. <br /><br />For Feeney, it was a no-brainer. That fortune, born from shrewd investments in scrappy little tech startups like Facebook, was there to do some good. His influence spreads far and wide. He advocated for legislation that would help to bring the Affordable Care Act into being, and secretly met with Northern Irish paramilitary groups, encouraging them to move towards peaceful means of discourse. His one key demand: that his name was kept quiet. He had no interest in the publicity, just the end game. <br /><br />Now 85, Charles lives in a rented apartment in San Francisco with his wife. It's a quiet end to a remarkable life, and shows how philanthropy, when engaged in whole-heartedly, can make one hell of a difference. <br /><br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-83394947525689998152017-01-05T08:01:00.000+00:002017-01-05T08:01:36.908+00:00How Ken Gave Back To His Home TownWe're all nervously looking up the line, worrying about the news that 2017 will deliver. Here at The Pier, we choose to view things positively. Therefore, we're entering our 11th year (we opened for business in December 2007–good grief!) with a little shot of happy news, to show that there is still good in the world. <br />
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Meet Ken Townsley. The 71 year old is a former airline baggage handler from Blackpool, who took the news of redundancy in the late sixties as an opportunity. With his payoff, he set up his own holiday business, Trident Travel. The company, based in his home town, went from strength to strength, eventually employing 700 people locally. He sold it to Thomas Cook, trousering over £80million into the bargain. <br />
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Good for Ken. You could be excused for thinking that he'd take the money, whizz off to Florida and live the high life. And you'd be right. But Ken was at heart a Blackpool lad, and he pledged to do right by the place. <br />
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So he's set up the <a href="http://www.totalgiving.co.uk/charity/the-kentown-wizard-foundation" target="_blank">Kentown Wizard Foundation</a>, which is dropping large cheques onto good causes based in the area. Hospices and children's charities have benefitted with donations adding up to several hundred thousand pounds, given with very little warning. Fund boss Margaret Ingham sums up Kentown's freewheeling approach:<br />
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“Quite often they are very surprised to hear from us because they have not applied. We just ask if they want some money!”</blockquote>
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Len Curtis of Donna's Dream House, a charity which offers holidays for children in need, confirms that it doesn't take much work to get onto Ken's radar:<br />
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“We got a letter saying we would be considered, but it didn’t have much information other than they wanted to come and talk to us. Then it came to a couple of meetings. It was only revealed on Wednesday the extent of the help they wanted to give.”</blockquote>
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That help, in case you're wondering, is a complete refurbishment of the charity's premises, work that would have been completely out of the question before Ken's intervention. <br />
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You hear a lot about philanthropy and charitable donations from the rich, but Ken's local and slightly eccentric focus does our weary old ventricles a bit of good. We're happy to see a Blackpool lad giving back so solidly to his old community. More news like this in the New Year, please! Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-11732769981649898882016-12-09T16:23:00.001+00:002016-12-09T16:23:15.013+00:00Concept To Coat In 25 DaysIf you need an example of how fast fashion has changed the face of clothing retail, then you need look no further than a high-collared dark coat with a ring fastening that went on sale recently at Zara in the US. A month before it hit the racks, it was no more than a vague preference in a customer feedback form. <br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://www.wsj.com/articles/fast-fashion-how-a-zara-coat-went-from-design-to-fifth-avenue-in-25-days-1481020203">As the Wall Street Journal reports</a>, it can take as little as 25 days for a broad concept–in this case, customers wanting more hardware on their outerwear (that all important ring fixing)–becoming not just a prototype, but an actual product on the racks. <br /><br />The key is that all-important customer feedback, linked to a tightly focussed and centralised production based largely in Zara's home base of Spain. The coat was prototyped in the small industrial city of Arteixo, before a squad of pattern-makers, cutters and seamstresses got to work. A little under two weeks later, 8000 coats were on a plane at Barcelona. Destination: the racks at Zara stores across the States. <br /><br />Other retailers are seeing the benefits to this tightly-integrated and streamlined system. US-based companies are beginning to move operations closer to home, using the Caribbean instead of Asia as manufacturing bases. This squeezes up that all-important transport window, getting new items into the shops much more quickly. <br /><br />However, we have concerns. This fast-track model only works if corners are cut. Can we be certain that QA standards are as high as they could be, given the reputation for fast fashion's poor quality of fit and finish? After all, one reason that the clothes are so cheap is that they are deliberately designed not to last for more than one season. As Zara are redefining the length of a season into weeks rather than months, should we be surprised that clothes from fast fashion retailers don't suit purpose after the first couple of washes?<br /><br />You have to wonder about the design process as well. A five-day window for prototyping seems awfully slim. It makes you wonder if designing for a limited range of sizes is part of the business plan. <br /><br />Zara's parent company Inditex are clearly very successful at what they do, and their business model is envied across the sector. Global communication technology working in concert with a localised and tightly integrated manufacturing base have basically allowed them to redefine the way that clothing is designed, produced and consumed. However, as we all know, the fast-track process and its built-in environmental impact is not necessarily that great for anyone... apart from Inditex's shareholders. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-90337081683463757642016-12-07T09:04:00.001+00:002016-12-07T09:04:23.799+00:00Join Breakfast in A Bag on the streets this Christmas!It's a hard life on the streets, and especially at this time of year. The temperature and dark days don't make it pleasant, but Christmas and its focus on family and togetherness can really put the boot in. <br /><br />A new charity aims to make a tiny difference this festive season, with a special push to help the homeless of Central London. Breakfast In A Bag are a highly mission-specific cause who aim to do one thing very well–make sure that those in need get a wholesome and nourishing start to the day. Their breakfast station has been open since the summer. This Christmas Day, they will be out on the streets handing out their signature bags. These include cereal, milk, fruit, juice and a cereal bar–certainly enough to get you up and about. <br /><br />As well as the Christmas Day offensive, Breakfast In A Bag will be throwing a street party next Friday, 18th December. There will be a choir, party hats, mince pies and a few surprises! It'll be worth checking out if you're in town. <br /><br />We like Breakfast In A Bag for their media-savvy approach to raising awareness and funds. You can donate through Paypal, by handing over supermarket vouchers, or even through their Amazon Wishlist. Of course, volunteers are always very welcome! <br /><br />BIAB are also great at reaching out directly for very specific items–they've been after crackers recently, funnily enough. After gaining support from famous names like Al Murray, David Baddiel and Nick Knowles, as well as Labour MP Jess Phillips, the charity's profile and message are getting out to a wide audience. <br /><br />Breakfast In A Bag's inclusive, open approach is making a real difference, and we wish them all the best with their first Christmas on the streets. For more info, and to find out how you can help, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.breakfastinabag.co.uk">hit up the website</a>. <br /><br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-80656145407255362452016-12-02T12:49:00.000+00:002016-12-02T12:49:06.201+00:00Have An H&M Xmas!It's likely you've already seen this, but just in case it's passed under your radar this week, here's a little Friday film for you. It's one of those shorts that only really becomes an advert in the last five seconds, so don't feel too guilty about enjoying it. After all, 'tis the season of massively expensive Christmas special ads.<br />
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This one gets a nod as it's directed by Wes Anderson, the symmetry-obsessed guy behind such visual treats as The Grand Budpest Hotel and The Royal Tennenbaums. Here, his sharp visual sense is dialed into a sweet little story of a train delayed on its way to deliver passengers for the holidays, and how the inventive Conductor Ralph does his very best to make things right.<br />
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With a dry turn from Anderson regular Adrien Brody and a sumptuous mise en scéne (that's set dressing and costumes to you and me), the film is well worth three minutes of your time. I mean, it's no Buster The Bulldog, but it has its moments. Of course, you could question whether the famously fernickety Anderson is bothered that his carefully-tooled aesthetic is being corralled in the services of fast fashion. Or you could just bask in the warm and fuzzy feelings it engenders. Once again, 'tis the season.<br />
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As an aside, yr humble writer recently changed day jobs, and I'm happy to report that the place I now work for, <a href="http://www.cinelab.co.uk/" target="_blank">Cinelab</a>, had a hand in the creation of the film. And I mean film. None of that digital nonsense here, thank you.<br />
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There. Plug plugged. Enjoy the film.<br />
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<br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-58401839326601317392016-12-01T05:49:00.001+00:002016-12-01T05:49:53.029+00:00A Beastie Of A Shoe. At Least It's For A Good Cause. There are fascinating examples of fans buying products designed or promoted by their favourite brands or celebrities with little thought given to whether it's worth it. You could argue this goes all the way up to the week-long queues we used to see outside Apple stores for the latest iProduct. When I used to work in London's trendy Soho, I regularly witnessed block-long lines at cult streetwear store Supreme. Famously, once people queued for a Supreme-branded brick. Yep, a regulation-sized house brick stamped with the Supreme logo.<br />
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You do have to wonder if there's some sort of bet in place amongst certain well-placed designers as to what people will fork out on, and how ugly a design has to be before they will walk away. Case in point: the new sneaker endorsed by Beastie Boy Ad-Rock, <a href="https://keepcompany.com/collections/ramos/products/the-ramos-ad-rock" target="_blank">which is now available for pre-order</a>. Created in conjunction with vegan footwear company Keep, net profits from the sale of the shoe going to Planned Parenthood. Ad-Rock says:<br />
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“Given the outcome of our current election, it’s gonna get a lot colder before we can feel that summer sun again. So I collaborated with my friend, [Keep Shoes founder] Una [Kim], not just because I wanted warm sneaks, but because I support small business. I support women-run business. I support Asian-American-run business. Net proceeds of this shoe will be donated to Planned Parenthood because I support a woman’s right to choose and feel that women should not be punished for making decisions about their own lives and bodies.” </blockquote>
All very admirable. Keep are well-known as a highly ethical, worker-supporting company, and Planned Parenthood are an exceptionally worthy cause. However, the problem is in the shoes themselves. They are pretty darn ugly. Made of nylon and cordura, with bungees instead of laces, they look more like nan-shoes than anything you'd want to be seen in on the street. <br />
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Here's the issue, then. Should you buy the shoe, or others like it, if you support a cause or like the endorsing artist, regardless of whether the item itself is unpleasing to the eye? Is this just a matter of taste, and I'm sneering at the Keep X Ad-Rock Ramos simply because they aren't to my taste? I mean, I'm hardly an exemplar of street style. But I fail to see how anyone would want <i>those</i> within safe minimum distance of their feet. </div>
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Fashion and causes and celebrity endorsements have always been bedfellows, and the resultant offspring have frequently been a bit odd-looking. The Keep X Ad-Rock Ramos is just the latest example of that trend, and they're at least born out of the noblest of intentions. I just hope they're more comfortable than they look. </div>
<br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-45726387149730832572016-11-29T06:20:00.001+00:002016-11-29T06:20:23.216+00:00Time To Give Back On #GivingTuesdayWe've finally got through Black Friday and Cyber Monday. Both of these 'holidays' are unadulterated celebrations of greed, as we're encouraged to spend, spend spend. All this on the run-up to Christmas, which is the most commercialised holiday of them all. The message seems clear. The holiday season is all about conspicuous consumption. <br /><br />One small ray of hope is the beacon of Giving Tuesday. It's a chance for you to ease your guilt at the excesses of the weekend just gone, and those to come, by offering up something that can't easily be bought or sold... your precious time. <br /><br />The idea is simple. Pick a cause. Offer to volunteer for a set time. A few hours can make a real difference. There's no time limit, or cut-off date. Donate what time you can, and volunteer when you like. Just show up, and find how simple and fulfilling giving back can be.<br /><br />Last year, last year people from 12 countries came together to donate over 3,500 hours to important causes including refugee empowerment, education and freedom of expression. Let's see if we can improve on that this year. Let's face it, 2016 has been a tough one for all of us. It's little gestures like this that can help us find our way back to the light. <br /><br />If you'd like to join in, look up #GivingTuesday on social media, or head to <a target="_blank" href="http://www.bitly.com/givinghours">bitly.com/GivingHours</a> to pledge directly. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-8905675039447600952016-11-25T06:32:00.001+00:002016-11-25T06:32:17.914+00:00Why Is It Taking So Long To Make Bangladeshi Garment Factories Safe? Three years after the Rana Plaza disaster, a regulatory body in charge of implementing root-and-branch safety changes in Bangladeshi factories is not doing its job. Worse, it's passing factories as safe when work has yet to be completed. <br />
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The Guardian has revealed that an independent survey into the factories used by the Alliance consortium, an organisation of retailers that include Gap and Walmart, shows that nearly two-thirds are still not up to code. 62% of factories surveyed have neither working fire alarms or proper fire doors. Nearly half have major structural issues that have not been corrected. <br />
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The Alliance Consortium has now pushed back a self-imposed deadline to complete the work needed on these factories to 2018–which just happens to coincide with the end of their agreement to carry out that work. There's also contention as to what constitutes completed safety work. The independent survey, undertaken by a group of observers that include the International Labour Rights Forum, the Worker Rights Consortium, the Clean Clothes Campaign and the Maquila Solidarity Network, consider that of the 107 factories considered to be "on track", an astonishing 99 were still falling over on at least one aspect of safety.<br />
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The authors of the report note:<br />
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“The Alliance has never offered any justification for the decision to ignore its own safety deadlines. Nor has the Alliance explained why it is responsible to allow factories four years to carry out life-saving renovations that should have been completed in less than one, while still labeling those factories as ‘On Track’.”</blockquote>
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For their own part, the Alliance dispute the findings. Director of the Consortium James Moriarty was bullish on progress: <br />
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“We in the Alliance are doing something that has never been done before. We are taking an existing industry that is seriously flawed and trying to correct it from scratch. The assertion that we could get all this done in one year is frankly ludicrous to anyone who has an engineering or safety background and understands the past state or the current state of the industry.”</blockquote>
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James does have a point here. The Bangladeshi garment industry is one built quickly on highly questionable safety standards. It's unsurprising that those standards are so low, and building something that will ensure there's no repeat of Rana Plaza should not be cobbled together. Nevertheless, everyone wants results. Should we be concerned that the Alliance seems to be dragging its heels? Or do we take it on faith that doing a good job will take longer than originally anticipated? <br />
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Sadly, I guess we'll have to wait and see. But as ever, scrutiny and transparency can only help to keep those in charge of worker safety in the Bangladeshi garment industry on their toes and, at least nominally, on schedule. Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-23091136706408105712016-11-24T12:02:00.000+00:002016-11-24T12:02:02.685+00:00Patagonia Does Black Friday RightA fascinating sidebar to our earlier post about Black Friday alternatives also ties into concerns about the President-elect of the United States and his views on climate change (although these, like so many of his pre-election stances, seem to be changing by the day). <br />
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Outdoor clothing retailer Patagonia has been a long-time warrior in the fight against global warming. So they knew that the fight was really on once they heard the news that climate change skeptic Donald Trump was heading for the White House. <br />
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This Black Friday, Patagonia are taking a stand. They will donate all of their sales generated on that day to grassroots environmental groups. Over 800 organisations across the US are set to benefit from the gesture. And this is not chump change–Patagonia expects to clear over $2million in sales on Black Friday through their 80 stores and online. <br />
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Corley Kenner, global communications director for Patagonia, said:<br />
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"Following the election, the idea was generated internally as a way to demonstrate our deep commitment to environmental issues."</blockquote>
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Meanwhile, <a href="http://eu.patagonia.com/enGB/100-percent-for-the-planet" target="_blank">a statement released on Patagonia's website</a> draws a line in the sand:<br />
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"During a difficult and divisive time, we felt it was important to go further and connect more of our customers, who love wild places, with those who are fighting tirelessly to protect them." </blockquote>
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Patagonia's stance can only be applauded, and other companies are already starting to follow suit. These are dangerous times, and it's important that everyone, from the business community to the conscious consumer, makes it clear that Trump's values are not ours. This Black Friday seems like the perfect time to start. Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-35404619377792338742016-11-22T07:30:00.001+00:002016-11-22T07:30:41.821+00:00Step Away From The Black This FridayOne of the few American-style celebrations that hasn't made it across the Atlantic kicks off this week. Understandable, really, when you consider what Thanksgiving commemorates. However, the immediate aftermath of the big November holiday–the commercial <i>gotterdammerung</i> known as Black Friday, has started to gain traction here in the UK. <br /><br />Now, there is an argument that Black Friday deals are a handy money-saver for Christmas presents. But for the most part, it's more a moment for untrammelled consumerist overkill. And frankly, the deals just aren't that great. <br /><br />An increasing number of sustainable retailers and awareness groups are taking a stand against Black Friday, and putting their own twist on proceedings. They're taking the onus off taking, and back onto giving. <br /><br />For example, outdoor eco-retailer United By Blue are launching Blue Friday, and inviting people to use the day wisely–by clearing a pound of trash from shorelines and waterways. By taking a few minutes to fill a trash bag, you'll be doing your bit to help keep the world a slightly more beautiful place. It's also a great way to work off some of that post-turkey bloat. Check out United By Blue's website for more deets on how to contribute, and maybe win a free mug! <br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="https://unitedbyblue.com/blogs/united-by-blue-journal/why-we-re-calling-it-blue-friday">United By Blue's Blue Friday</a><br /><br />Meanwhile, Brighton is the place to be for Bright Friday, a day of events and fun that show how the consumerist message can be sidestepped in favour of something a little more sustainable. From textile workshops to a comedy showcase, there really is something for everyone. <br /><br />Bright Friday also marks the launch of Faux, the world's first satirical fashion magazine. This will be rolling out nationwide. Keep an eye on #BrightFriday on all your favourite social media vectors for more info. <br /><br />It's all too easy at this time of year to fall into the consumerist coma and spend, spend, spend... often needlessly. It's worth taking on the advice of Bright Friday and rolling it into your future relationships with the shopping fairies. <br /><br />1. Resist the pressure of buying things you don't want or even need. Remember, the best bargain is not buying stuff you didn't want in the first place.<br /><br />2. Rekindle love for what you already have.<br /><br />3. Create memories rather than buying them by trying something you've always wanted to do.<br /><br />I don't know about you, but that sounds like a fun blueprint for the retail-heavy weeks ahead. <br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-192247884439586072016-11-18T10:06:00.000+00:002016-11-18T10:06:13.629+00:00You Can't Compost Clothing<a target="_blank" href="http://magnifeco.com/breaking-down-the-biodegradability-myth-in-fashion/news/?utm_content=buffer9e997&utm_medium=social&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_campaign=buffer">A fascinating article in Magnifeco</a> takes a stern line over an innocuous term - biodegradable. It turns out that the idea of natural materials easily breaking down when returned to the environment is not always the case. <br /><br />A prime example is that of ancient relics, such as a 5,500 year-old shoe found in Armenia in 2010. Made from leather and stuffed with grass, the item is completely organic. Yet here it is, millennia after it was made, still recognisable as a man-made item. They knew how to make 'em to last in those days. <br /><br />When it comes to landfill, things get even more complex. They are specifically designed to keep out the air, water and bacteria that are conducive to biodegradability. In short, it's a great way to stop the process in its tracks. Which means that no matter what your rubbish is made of, in landfill it will stay in good condition for many hundreds of years. Sounds counterintuitive, right? But 'entombing' your trash keeps some of the nasty toxic byproducts of decomposition, a delightful cocktail that scientists call 'leachate', out of groundwater. Everything stays in suspended animation. Safe, but a huge waste of valuable land resources. <br /><br />In short, throwing away clothing is a sure way to keep it in the ecosystem for longer. Always consider recycling or donating, and let your charity of choice decide the best way forward for your unwanted garms. And don't forget, if you follow the Pier mantra of Buy Less, Spend More, Choose Wisely, then you'll be hitting the recycling bins less often anyway. <br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-72167678721677040252016-11-17T07:03:00.001+00:002016-11-17T07:03:09.481+00:00Is Trump An Environmental Nightmare? It's been a week since the shocking rise to the one of the most powerful offices in the world by former reality star and four-time bankrupt Donald Trump. There's a lot of worried people out there that wonder just what shake-ups are in store from the Orange One. <br /><br />No group has more cause to be worried than the environmental lobby. Trump is a well-known climate change denier, claiming that global warming is a conspiracy started by the Chinese. A key promise that got him elected was the pledge to get coal mining restarted in poor rural areas. One of his first moves was to appoint Myron Ewell, a notable contrarian on the issue, as head of the Environmental Protection Agency. Hardly the actions of a man who believes that clean energy is the way forward. <br /><br />How concerned should we be? <a target="_blank" href="https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2016/nov/12/donald-trump-climate-change-energy-environment?CMP=twt_a-environment_b-gdneco">In the Guardian, Michael Liebreich picks apart the rhetoric,</a> and makes it clear that much of what Trump has claimed is going to happen simply can't. <br /><br />For example, coal is on the decline in the States largely because of the threat from shale gas, which is nearly unlimited and considerably cheaper to extract. As coal reserves become harder to find, we look for alternatives. It's simple economic sense... which as a businessman Trump should be able to understand. <br /><br />Regardless of his views on the EPA (he's referred to the Agency as "a disaster") he can't get rid of it without an Act of Congress, and he simply doesn't have the support there he needs to do that, despite the Republican control of both sides of the house. <br /><br />With regards to clean energy–it's coming, whether Trump and Ewell like it or not. The technology is improving and becoming cheaper year by year. We're already seeing reports of the UK running completely on sustainable power for a few days earlier this year, and this trend is only likely to continue and grow. That growth may be slower without the US leading the way, but there's little he can do to clamp down on it. And of course, there are sound economic reasons for supporting clean renewable energy, regardless of his views on climate change. <br /><br />There's an element of 'wait and see' around the Trump administration, as he comes to realise that promises made on the campaign trail do not automatically translate into policy. We should also note that Donald is not afraid of changing his mind on big issues–as recently as 2009 he co-signed a letter to President Obama extolling the virtues of clean energy. I wonder what's happened to change his mind... and what can be done to change it back. <br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-40180640594183865152016-11-15T14:57:00.001+00:002016-11-15T14:57:39.797+00:00A Europe-Wide Plan For Sustainable ChangeWe need to get a handle on waste and sustainability in the fashion industry. Recent figures show that we throw away the equivalent of seven tonnes of unwanted clothing in the UK every ten minutes. The sector takes up five per cent of our carbon and water footprints, and is a massive hog on resources. We need a plan.<br /><br />The thing is, we may just have one. The Waste And Resources Action Plan, better known to us as WRAP, have just signed five major clothing manufacturers to ECAP (European Clothing Action Plan), a Europe-wide initiative to reduce waste and work towards a more sustainable future. One name in particular stands out in the list of participants: Primark. <br /><br />There are four main points to ECAP: designing and specifying products for longer life and closed-loop production; ensuring that less clothing goes to incineration and landfill; encouraging customers to buy less clothing and use it for longer; and improving innovation in resource-efficient design and service models to encourage business growth in the sector. All of these are fairly basic tenets in sustainable fashion. How long have we been talking about Buy Less, Choose Wisely? <br /><br />The plan is for ECAP participants to divert 90,000 tonnes of clothing waste from landfill and incineration, save 1.6 million tons of CO2e, and make 588 million cubic metres of water savings. Help will come in the form of education into the current impact of their business models, and aid in development of new products using more sustainable resources. <br /><br />Sarah Clayton of WRAP says:<br /><br /><blockquote>“As the first participants of ECAP, these organisations are championing sustainable clothing across Europe. The wheels are in motion, but more can be done – we are looking to welcome and involve more brands, retailers, manufacturers, reuse and recycling organisations, charities and consumers in the plan to drive greater sustainability of clothing across Europe.”</blockquote><br /><br />ECAP aims to build on the success of WRAP's UK-based Sustainable Action Clothing Plan (SCAP2020), which has 82 signatories all working to reduce the environmental impact of the clothing industry. That plan has already had some astonishing successes–in the first year of operation, there was a 12.5% reduction in water impacts, and a 3% drop in carbon emissions. <br /><br />Involving big names in an ambitious plan is great news, of course, but it remains to be seen how much of a success ECAP will be. But the will and enthusiasm to change from both business and government does seem to be in place. And that can only be a good thing. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-52769065443446050692016-11-11T08:02:00.000+00:002016-11-11T08:02:17.555+00:00So Long, Lenny.You'll forgive me, I hope, if I take a side-turning today. This tumultuous week has been capped off with the sad news of the passing of Leonard Cohen. A poet, author and song-writer of extraordinary ability, his work inspired romantics, dreamers and beautiful losers for decades. I include myself amongst that throng. <br />
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His work was, rich, layered and moving, of course. But there was a wry sense of humour there as well. When, in Tower Of Song, he growled "I was born with the gift of a golden voice", you knew this was a man who could never take himself too seriously. <br />
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Ah, that voice. It's strange listening to early recordings, when he sang in a pleasing contralto. We're more used to later Lenny, when his delivery deepened and sweetly roughened into an instrument of rare, dark gravity. It's almost tactile, the deep bass frequencies washing over you in warm, insistent waves. You can't help but be hypnotised. <br />
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His songwriting abilities will be forever lauded, but he had a way of using the most unassuming of instruments–cheap keyboards with tinny presets left untouched–to deliver music of true and lasting power. In other hands this would have been laughable. But Lenny always knew what he was doing. The instrumentation is not the song.<br />
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I was lucky enough to see him in concert once, on one of the tours he undertook after his retirement in a Buddhist enclave in California was ended with the news that his manager had embezzled away his songwriting fortune. What could have been a dreadful chore for all involved was, instead, a truly joyful evening. Lenny was energised, powered by an adoring crowd into a three-hour set that became increasingly the norm. He was in his late seventies at the time, performing with the stamina of a man half his age. <br />
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I've always said when I grow up that I want to be Leonard Cohen. Now he's gone, I realise what a foolish notion that is. No-one else could be who he was, or do what he did. He was tenacious enough to hold on and deliver one last album, a meditation on mortality called You Want It Darker. One last gift for us. But then, he was always a gentleman that way. <br />
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So long, Lenny. <br />
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<br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-15125620215636201902016-11-10T08:16:00.001+00:002016-11-10T08:20:37.248+00:00From Threat To ThreadI've talked a lot over the past couple of months about ocean plastic, and how it's a great untapped resource waiting to happen. As new technologies develop around fibres and fabrics made from recycled petrochemical products, it becomes clearer that the island of junk floating somewhere in the Pacific could soon have miners descending on it like vultures. <br /><br />The starting shot for that race might just have been fired. Sportswear giant Adidas, have, as I reported a few months back, teamed up with environmental initiative Parley For The Oceans to create a new shoe sourced almost entirely from ocean plastics. The uppers, normally made with synthetic fibres, have instead been woven from recycled plastic yarn. Meanwhile the midsoles have been 3-D printed from recycled fishing nets, one of the biggest problems in the creation of ocean junk. <br /><br />All of which would be admirable. However, this is no limited edition vanity rollout, designed to make Adidas look good. The AdidasxParley shoe is reported to have a million-pair manufacture cycle. The plan is to get these shoes onto as many feet as possible, and prove that scaled-up sustainable fashion manufacture can work and be profitable. More importantly, that the shoes look good and feel comfortable. That shouldn't be too tricky. Let's face it–athletic footwear is mostly plastic these days anyway. Who cares where it comes from? <br /><br />In a clever move, Adidas and Parley are also aiming to make ocean plastic-derived athletic wear a desirable item. They've launched football jerseys for AC Milan and Bayern Munich made from the stuff, that will be featured in special upcoming matches. That's going to get fans salivating, and spike up demand. <br /><br />This is smart marketing, and really good news for the future exploitation of ocean plastics. Passionate football supporters will want these shirts, and will be prepared to listen to the story behind them. I think AdidasxParley may have just played a blinder. <br /><br />For more, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.adidas.co.uk/parley">head to the Adidas site</a>. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-61361141908103157132016-11-09T07:42:00.001+00:002016-11-11T08:02:38.157+00:00Soaking Up The Jellyfish Boom I'm never less than amazed by the bounty we receive from the oceans, or the innovative ways in which we find use for the most unassuming of resources. We'll talk more about ocean plastics tomorrow, but today I want to highlight a fantastic example of lateral thinking. <br />
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Jellyfish are becoming a real problem along some American shorelines, as populations rise, driven by pollution and rising ocean temperatures. They're unpleasant to be around, but jellyfish are also a risk to undersea infrastructure, particularly the cooling systems of nuclear power plants. In some areas of New Mexican coastline, colonies can reach for a hundred miles and be so dense that there are more jellyfish than water in some small inlets. <br />
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Research into ways to stem that growth have led to some fascinating discoveries. As with ocean plastics, one group of scientists have found a way to turn a problem into something useful. <br />
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An Israeli startup, Cine'al, has been looking into the water-absorbent properties of jellyfish flesh. When broken down into a material that they call 'hydromash', it is incredibly hygroscopic, able to soak up astonishingly high volumes of liquid. The Cine'al team realised that hydromash could be used in medical dressings, sponges, nappies and tampons. <br />
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In America alone, over 40 million nappies are used daily, and 43 million women use tampons every month. Most of this material ends up in landfill, and could take hundreds of years to break down. Hydrogel-derived products, however, take less than 30 days to break down–a clear and obvious environmental benefit. Nor Davidson of Cine'al says: <br />
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“If these products go mainstream, they can revolutionize the market and make an environmentally noticeable difference.”<br />
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Products like nappies and tampons are invisible yet essential parts of our everyday life, seen for the most part as one-use, disposable items. Any innovation that gets the truckfuls of these materials out of landfill more quickly has to be celebrated. If at the same time it makes our shorelines a little safer and more pleasurable, than so much the better. <br />
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For more on Cine'al's innovative approach, <a href="http://www.capitalnano.com/portfolio/cineal" target="_blank">hit up their website</a>. <br />
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<br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-51108475575952818722016-11-04T08:49:00.001+00:002016-11-04T08:49:46.463+00:00A Big Step Forward On The War Against Modern SlaveryAfter yesterday's piece on Syrian refugees toiling for next-to-nothing in factories that supply Marks And Spencer, you could be forgiven for taking a bleak view on how we treat the workers that make our clothes. Child labour and slavery don't seem to be going away, and there seems to be little political will to do anything about it. <br /><br />Ah, but that's where you're wrong. In fact, the signing into law of the Modern Slavery Act in 2015 has had a big impact in the commercial sector. In fact, there's been a huge uptick in big brands and companies that have become actively involved in addressing slavery in the global supply chain since last year. <br /><br />The benefits, according to a survey led by the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) on the first anniversary of the Bill coming into force, are clear. 97% of interviewees see the reputational risk of finding modern slavery in the supply chain as the biggest driver for change. 86% see corporate action on human rights as a critical business responsibility, whether or not it's seen as a problem for their image. There's a clear and consistent desire to keep the taint of slavery out of the modern workplace. <br /><br />But there are challenges, which the interviewees also highlighted. Sheer scale is an issue, as are the organisational mountains to climb in simply getting these practices written, formalised and into place. There's a reason so few companies have explicit anti-slavery policies in place–no-one likes to feel that there should be a need for them in the 21st century. <br /><br />The biggest driver behind success in eradicating modern slavery in the developing world is one of the simplest–good, clear communication with your workforce. Due diligence on core labour standards is vitally important, as are close ties with relevant government agencies and NGOs. But all respondents agreed that one of the most effective interventions is involving workers directly in managing and mitigating the risks of modern slavery. There's still some wariness in the management class in dealing with trade unions, however, with only a third of interviewees agreeing that they are an important part of the picture. <br /><br />Most importantly, the survey reveals a significant change in both viewpoint and sense of responsibility. In short, the respondents are no longer looking at modern slavery as someone else's problem. This is a massive step forward in combatting workplace slavery. It's still early days, and no-one is pretending that there isn't a great deal of hard work ahead. But the will is there, and that's what will get things moving. <br /><br />The last word goes to Cindy Berman of the ETI, who sums up the report like this: <br /><br />“At the strategic level, senior leaders in progressive companies are stepping up to the plate and recognising their responsibilities. But even for these companies, their journey to tackle endemic human rights risks in their businesses is just beginning, and none can confidently say they have cracked the problem. We were pleased to see a recognition by companies that in addition to getting their own house in order, they need to work with others, engage with governments, and call on independent advice and expertise.”<br /><br />You can read the whole report <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ethicaltrade.org/resources/corporate-leadership-modern-slavery">here</a>. <br /><br /><br /><br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9201300276766108633.post-73554015417849688102016-11-03T07:30:00.001+00:002016-11-03T07:30:59.946+00:00M&S Tripped Up Over Child Labour In TurkeyShocking news came out last week which conflated two of the big issues of our age: child labour and Syrian refugees. More worryingly, it also concerned one of most beloved, and supposedly ethical retailers–Marks And Sparks. <br /><br />A Panorama investigation that screened last week on BBC1 claimed to show that factories in Turkey were using Syrian children in garment factories that were making clothes for both Marks and online retailer Asos. The refugees were paid less than a pound an hour–well under the Turkish minimum wage–and were paid in cash on the street by a middleman. The show also alleged ill-treatment of the illegal workforce. One interviewee said: <br /><br /><blockquote>“If anything happens to a Syrian, they will throw him away like a piece of cloth.”</blockquote><br /><br />M&S responded to the allegations by saying: <br /><br /><blockquote>“Ethical trading is fundamental to M&S. We are acutely aware of the complexity surrounding Syrian refugees in Turkey. We have a local team on the ground in Turkey who have visited all of our suppliers there. They have also run supplier workshops on the Syrian refugee crisis highlighting the change in labour law and how to legally employ Syrian workers. <br /><br />“We had previously found no evidence of Syrian workers employed in factories that supply us, so we were very disappointed by these findings, which are extremely serious and are unacceptable to M&S. We are working closely with this supplier to take remedial action, including offering permanent legal employment, in support of any Syrian daily worker who has been employed in this factory.”</blockquote><br /><br />The issue with a global supply chain is the difficulty in successfully monitoring and policing it. If a big order comes into a factory that urgently needs to be filled, it's easy to see how a factory owner might use all resources available to get the job done, however unethical it might be. Turning a blind eye as to where their agency labour is coming from could be seen as a necessary evil. It's a worry that the big brands seem to find it so difficult to ensure that this sort of behaviour does not happen in their factories. However, short of constant, unannounced inspections, it's tough to see how they can maintain the standards set out in their fair working practices handbooks. <br /><br />Sadly, unethical labour has always been a part of the rag trade, and globalisation makes fair trade all the more difficult to develop and protect. Despite their best efforts, no-one is spotlessly clean in this game. As M&S have found out, an ethical standpoint often collapses when it comes to closer investigation. <br /><br />For more on the story, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.independent.co.uk/news/child-labour-sweatshops-refugees-marks-and-spencer-panorama-clothes-sold-in-uk-britain-british-high-a7376706.html">check out this piece in The Independent</a>. <br />Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08692868290315256275noreply@blogger.com0