In face of the, to put it mildly, inclement weather sweeping the country this week, it's essential to wrap up snugly. What's needed is a nice warm jumper you can wear as an over- or underlayer, perhaps with a hood that you could pop up when snow or rain fell. Oh, if only someone could invent a garment like that...
It is time to reclaim the hoodie, to rehabilitate its less than stellar reputation. It's comfortable and versatile, and comes into its own in foul weather. I've been living in a Pier32 hoodie all week, and feel snug and secure even on a bike ride home in a snow-storm.
We are hoodie specialists at Pier32, stocking over 50 different types from more than a dozen manufacturers. Everything from the fitted longline garment for the ladies through to heavyweight zoodies (hoodies with zips, natch) that will shrug off the cold with ease. If you want to take your sounds out and about with you, many of our hoodies feature holes in the pocket (yes, that's a feature, not a flaw) and loops in the collar to keep your leads tucked out of sight. And of course we can print or embroider your logo onto any of our garments.
Why not check out our most recent newsletter for more, including a potted history of the hoodie? You can also follow Guru Ian on Twitter for the very latest news from The Pier. Have a safe and warm weekend, everyone.
Pier32 Newsletter: It's All About The Hoody
Guru Ian on Twitter: @Pier32UK
Friday, 10 February 2012
Wednesday, 8 February 2012
Asking The Right Questions
When you try to map ideas of sustainability and ethical behaviour onto large-scale businesses like fashion you frequently run into tricky conundrums. For example, a visit to a sportswear manufacturer in China may impress you with the cleanliness of the plant, or the keen way that the management proudly point out their high-tech production line and bleeding-edge processes.
But their attitude towards the workers that keep those plants running can be less impressive. The idea that they need to be looked after, treated as anything more than another cog in the machine, can often get overlooked. It's not even a case of a company being "evil"--worker's rights have simply never been factored into the complex equations that underpin their working practices.
This is a tough job for global brands to get right, which is why the pioneers of green and ethical fashion tend to be smaller companies that have the ability to work much more closely with their manufacturing base. Frequently they'll partner with factories that already have a decent record in looking after their staff, sourcing materials in a sustainable way and doing their bit for the environment.
This is only going to become more relevant as customers start to demand more ethical behaviour from big companies, and as those companies see the benefit in lower production costs, increased productivity--and yes, in the associated warm glow of positive PR.
The trick is to be seen to be doing the right thing and to back it up with proper accreditation. WRAP certification in the fashion industry is a great step forward, but it's only part of the story.
Once you move away from the simple life of an atelier and onto the global stage, the dance becomes more complex, and there are many more steps to learn. Your idea of decent pay and conditions may differ radically from that of your supplier. You might consider going to work at the age of twelve to be child labour. In some cultures, that's simply how it's done, how it's always been. Dancing your way round all these concerns is tricky to say the least, and it's a rare global brand that hasn't tripped over their own feet at some point.
It can be done, of course. It's heartening that some of the bigger companies are starting to ask the right questions. Finding the answers that work for everyone from boss to worker, from culture to culture and country to country is, of course, another story.
But their attitude towards the workers that keep those plants running can be less impressive. The idea that they need to be looked after, treated as anything more than another cog in the machine, can often get overlooked. It's not even a case of a company being "evil"--worker's rights have simply never been factored into the complex equations that underpin their working practices.
This is a tough job for global brands to get right, which is why the pioneers of green and ethical fashion tend to be smaller companies that have the ability to work much more closely with their manufacturing base. Frequently they'll partner with factories that already have a decent record in looking after their staff, sourcing materials in a sustainable way and doing their bit for the environment.
This is only going to become more relevant as customers start to demand more ethical behaviour from big companies, and as those companies see the benefit in lower production costs, increased productivity--and yes, in the associated warm glow of positive PR.
The trick is to be seen to be doing the right thing and to back it up with proper accreditation. WRAP certification in the fashion industry is a great step forward, but it's only part of the story.
Once you move away from the simple life of an atelier and onto the global stage, the dance becomes more complex, and there are many more steps to learn. Your idea of decent pay and conditions may differ radically from that of your supplier. You might consider going to work at the age of twelve to be child labour. In some cultures, that's simply how it's done, how it's always been. Dancing your way round all these concerns is tricky to say the least, and it's a rare global brand that hasn't tripped over their own feet at some point.
It can be done, of course. It's heartening that some of the bigger companies are starting to ask the right questions. Finding the answers that work for everyone from boss to worker, from culture to culture and country to country is, of course, another story.
Friday, 3 February 2012
Post Recycle Dry
I spent a quiet morning earlier in the week going through my wardrobe and sorting out the clothes that I no longer wear, or that no longer fit (I have long arms, which means that shrinkage on long-sleeved shirts shows up quickly and obviously. Big hands and skinny wrists poking out of a too-short cuff make me look like a gibbon). A merciless purge every year is the only way to keep my clothing from running out of control.
Of course, I don't bin the old stuff. It goes into the charity bins down the road. I've often wondered what happens to my old gear once it goes off to another life, especially the worn stuff.
A lot of it gets recycled, of course, and it's always interesting to see how old becomes new. An example would be these rather splendid Slim Jim jeans, created by Nudie and sold exclusively through Barney's New York. Made from a mix of recycled denim and new organic cotton, the jeans are sharply constructed, brilliantly coloured and built to last. The finish is rougher than Nudie's usual high standard, but for these jeans it doesn't matter. In fact the slubby look just makes them more desirable. They're in a limited edition of 500 though, so if you want to snap up a pair you'd better get your skates on.
It's great to see recycled and upcycled clothing take a rightful place in the realm of covetable high fashion. Who knows, the next pair of posh jeans that you buy might have something of a beloved old pair as part of their makeup. New clothing with built-in history; now that's intriguing.
For more, including a short film on how the Post Recycle Dry jeans are made, check out the Nudie Jeans site.
Of course, I don't bin the old stuff. It goes into the charity bins down the road. I've often wondered what happens to my old gear once it goes off to another life, especially the worn stuff.
A lot of it gets recycled, of course, and it's always interesting to see how old becomes new. An example would be these rather splendid Slim Jim jeans, created by Nudie and sold exclusively through Barney's New York. Made from a mix of recycled denim and new organic cotton, the jeans are sharply constructed, brilliantly coloured and built to last. The finish is rougher than Nudie's usual high standard, but for these jeans it doesn't matter. In fact the slubby look just makes them more desirable. They're in a limited edition of 500 though, so if you want to snap up a pair you'd better get your skates on.
It's great to see recycled and upcycled clothing take a rightful place in the realm of covetable high fashion. Who knows, the next pair of posh jeans that you buy might have something of a beloved old pair as part of their makeup. New clothing with built-in history; now that's intriguing.
For more, including a short film on how the Post Recycle Dry jeans are made, check out the Nudie Jeans site.
Wednesday, 1 February 2012
The State Of Welfare
It's all starting to look like a bit of a shambles, really. The welfare reforms that the coalition government has tried to fast-track through government and into law have loudly run into brick walls. The Welfare Reform Bill has time and again, been turned away at its Lord's reading over concerns that it will leave our most vulnerable citizens at risk.
For charities, David Cameron's Work Programme, the training scheme that is supposed to solve our unemployment problems, is even more of a bust. The idea is to get charities more involved in helping "hard-to-reach" people like single parents and the disabled back into jobs. In fact, their expertise in working with the sector was deemed to be vital to the success of the programme.
Seven months in and the wheels are already coming off. According to surveys published by two third sector umbrella groups, confidence in the Work Programme is in the dumpster. Charities fear that the private companies with which they are partnered aren't referring clients their way. Worse, that they're skimming off the cream and simply handing over the toughest and most intractable cases to their charitable brethren.
In desperation, some charities have pulled out of the scheme altogether, worried about bankruptcy as the money they were promised to do their job refuses to materialise. At a recent meeting between the National Council for Voluntary Organisations and employment minister Chris Grayling, Joe Irvin said:
The widespread opposition to these changes shows that the government just isn't getting the balance right. As the list of humiliating defeats to their proposals grows through downvotes in the Lords or simple pressure of public disapproval, you have to wonder how long the Work Programme is going to last in its current form--and whether charities will again be expected to pick up the pieces afterwards.
For charities, David Cameron's Work Programme, the training scheme that is supposed to solve our unemployment problems, is even more of a bust. The idea is to get charities more involved in helping "hard-to-reach" people like single parents and the disabled back into jobs. In fact, their expertise in working with the sector was deemed to be vital to the success of the programme.
Seven months in and the wheels are already coming off. According to surveys published by two third sector umbrella groups, confidence in the Work Programme is in the dumpster. Charities fear that the private companies with which they are partnered aren't referring clients their way. Worse, that they're skimming off the cream and simply handing over the toughest and most intractable cases to their charitable brethren.
In desperation, some charities have pulled out of the scheme altogether, worried about bankruptcy as the money they were promised to do their job refuses to materialise. At a recent meeting between the National Council for Voluntary Organisations and employment minister Chris Grayling, Joe Irvin said:
"We all support efforts to help unemployed people get back to work. But the public needs to be assured that some of the big private providers in the Work Programme are not either profiteering, or letting down unemployed people, by failing to make proper arrangements with the local voluntary organisations who want to help people back to work."Grayling's blithe response to this, "Inevitably in a big programme of this kind not every single organisation will succeed," tells you everything you need to know about the blinkered approach that the government has taken. None of which should be a big surprise. The changes to our welfare state have been massive, wide-ranging and criminally rushed.
The widespread opposition to these changes shows that the government just isn't getting the balance right. As the list of humiliating defeats to their proposals grows through downvotes in the Lords or simple pressure of public disapproval, you have to wonder how long the Work Programme is going to last in its current form--and whether charities will again be expected to pick up the pieces afterwards.
Friday, 27 January 2012
A Poem For Friday
Not from me, so you can all relax. Gerry, the Voice Of Pier 32, pointed me at a piece by poet Martin Powell entitled The Power Of Young People. Here's an extract:
Have a great weekend, everyone.
"With will and skill we can fulfil our social obligations; to build rapports, to open doors and lead investigations,
Into every clause of current laws of rules and legislation, so everybody has the right to insight and information.
And through our new communion of communal communication,
We’ll march streets across the nation, trust in transformation,
And get these corporations cooperating together; for a future that’s bright, whatever the weather."This ties perfectly into the theme of next week's posts, when I want to talk more about welfare reform and our obligations as both individuals and a society, particularly in view of upcoming legislation that will have major impacts on charities and their ability to do their work. You can read the whole thing at the link below. Please do.
Have a great weekend, everyone.
Wednesday, 25 January 2012
Spreading The Word
As social media becomes a bigger and bigger part of everyone's lives, it's interesting to see how big companies are taking the opportunity to communicate more directly with their customers. I'm not just talking about spam or money-off vouchers. Twitter and Facebook can be a brilliant way to let people know about less tangible benefits--like sustainability.
The second Social Media Sustainability Index, published yesterday in The Guardian, shows some astonishing growth in the use of social media for that purpose since last year. More than double the amount of major companies have an online presence that specifically addresses their ethical and sustainable projects. Blogs, Twitter accounts and Facebook Pages are all helping to get the word out as the big corporations realise that it's a great idea to shout about their good deeds. Sustainability, to put it simply, has become sexy.
This can, of course, be more than a simple PR exercise. Companies that are genuinely pushing towards true sustainability, and are communicating about it in a clear and engaging way have a real advantage in social media. Some, like Renault and BBVA are putting together communities of like-minded people through their social media projects. A great example of this is @myurbangreen from M&S, a project that I wrote about last week that's engaging whole communities in taking care of their own green spaces. Even the name has Twitter connotations.
We live in a world where it's straightforward to communicate with your customer base, but tricky to do it in a way that doesn't feel pandering or patronising. Get it right and do it honestly and transparently and there are big rewards to be had.
This blog is, I like to think, a good example of what I've been talking about. And the Pier32 Twitter account, run by Guru Ian, is well worth a look: Pier32UK gives you the very latest news from The Pier.
The second Social Media Sustainability Index, published yesterday in The Guardian, shows some astonishing growth in the use of social media for that purpose since last year. More than double the amount of major companies have an online presence that specifically addresses their ethical and sustainable projects. Blogs, Twitter accounts and Facebook Pages are all helping to get the word out as the big corporations realise that it's a great idea to shout about their good deeds. Sustainability, to put it simply, has become sexy.
This can, of course, be more than a simple PR exercise. Companies that are genuinely pushing towards true sustainability, and are communicating about it in a clear and engaging way have a real advantage in social media. Some, like Renault and BBVA are putting together communities of like-minded people through their social media projects. A great example of this is @myurbangreen from M&S, a project that I wrote about last week that's engaging whole communities in taking care of their own green spaces. Even the name has Twitter connotations.
We live in a world where it's straightforward to communicate with your customer base, but tricky to do it in a way that doesn't feel pandering or patronising. Get it right and do it honestly and transparently and there are big rewards to be had.
This blog is, I like to think, a good example of what I've been talking about. And the Pier32 Twitter account, run by Guru Ian, is well worth a look: Pier32UK gives you the very latest news from The Pier.
Friday, 20 January 2012
Pier32 Goes Carbon Neutral
We're starting off 2012 the right way. Pier32 is now officially certified as carbon neutral. All of our operational emissions for 2010 and 2011 have now been mitigated and offset. We've achieved this major milestone with the help of worldwide charity Childreach International. Working with a charity to get this done is important. There are plenty of scam merchants out there making a profit from our concerns about climate change. Through Childreach International, our contribution goes to directly help the people that need it most. Add that to the benefits in emissions reductions, and you can see why Childreach International was a good fit for us. Talking about fit, can we make a suggestion that could help slim down your promotional clothing budget? Buying in bulk might seem like an extravagance, but if you think about it in the same way that you'd look at your weekly shop then it makes more sense. A little planning ahead to make sure you have everything you need for the year, and getting it in one hit can save you quite a bit of cash. And it's cheaper and much more carbon-efficient to deliver one run of 2000 shirts than ten runs of 200. See, everybody wins! Of course, if you subscribed to the Pier32 newsletter, you'd know all this already. Have a look at what you're missing out on. And while you're at it, read more about our Neutral New Year at the Pier32 Carbon Neutral page.
Tuesday, 17 January 2012
Marking Out A Green Space with M&S
Marks And Spencer have spent the last couple of years as the front-runner in the move towards a greener high street. Their Plan A initiative has quietly revolutionised the brand's business model. Without disrupting their core values, good old M&S has made sustainability an integral part of how we as consumers view one of our most venerable shops.
That move is now spreading beyond the stores. M&S have launched @myurbangreen, a new project in conjunction with environmental charity Greenwork. The plan is to help communities to get involved in developing, managing and maintaining local green spaces. They're taking this seriously; by the end of September M&S plan to have been involved in 850 green space activities and events. They also plan to support 300 "Friends Of" groups, helping them to support and grow their local urban green space.
This is interesting stuff. M&S are already working closely with charities like Oxfam on clothes recycling projects, but @myurbanspaces (shame about the name) is more, dare we say, Big Society in outlook. It's a huge corporation actively seeking to give back to the community in a way that isn't connected with the core business. Sure, you could argue that it's simply corporate sponsorship writ large. But it's a logical step forward, given the work that has already been done. Working in lockstep with a respected environmental charity shows that this isn't a simple brand awareness exercise. I'm genuinely enthusiastic about this, and I'll be keeping an eye on how it works in parks, allotments and green spaces around the country.
That move is now spreading beyond the stores. M&S have launched @myurbangreen, a new project in conjunction with environmental charity Greenwork. The plan is to help communities to get involved in developing, managing and maintaining local green spaces. They're taking this seriously; by the end of September M&S plan to have been involved in 850 green space activities and events. They also plan to support 300 "Friends Of" groups, helping them to support and grow their local urban green space.
This is interesting stuff. M&S are already working closely with charities like Oxfam on clothes recycling projects, but @myurbanspaces (shame about the name) is more, dare we say, Big Society in outlook. It's a huge corporation actively seeking to give back to the community in a way that isn't connected with the core business. Sure, you could argue that it's simply corporate sponsorship writ large. But it's a logical step forward, given the work that has already been done. Working in lockstep with a respected environmental charity shows that this isn't a simple brand awareness exercise. I'm genuinely enthusiastic about this, and I'll be keeping an eye on how it works in parks, allotments and green spaces around the country.
Friday, 13 January 2012
Sourcey Undies
A slightly naughty post to brighten up this gloomy Friday the 13th. It's easy to find green and ethically produced footwear and clothing. But lingerie for the girl who cares about what she puts on and takes off? That's a little more tricky to get your mitts on.
Kudos, then to sisters Sophie Holloway and Alice Holloway-Smith, who are bringing green credentials and upcycling skills to that most under-rated of accessories - the nipple tassel and pastie. Inspired by the rise of interest in burlesque, the sisters have created a range of cheeky scanties that are exuberantly designed and unashamedly luxurious. They upcycle scraps of antique lace and silk, but the most surprising element comes from an unlikely source--old car seats. The super-soft antique leather is used to line the backs of the pasties, to eliminate any risk of ... you know, chafing.
Sophie and Alice deserve nothing but praise for bringing a touch of naughty fun and glamour to a sector that, despite everyone's best efforts, has a slightly dour image. No danger of that with an ethically-produced jewelled nipple tassel!
Find out more at the Holloway-Smith Noir website.
Kudos, then to sisters Sophie Holloway and Alice Holloway-Smith, who are bringing green credentials and upcycling skills to that most under-rated of accessories - the nipple tassel and pastie. Inspired by the rise of interest in burlesque, the sisters have created a range of cheeky scanties that are exuberantly designed and unashamedly luxurious. They upcycle scraps of antique lace and silk, but the most surprising element comes from an unlikely source--old car seats. The super-soft antique leather is used to line the backs of the pasties, to eliminate any risk of ... you know, chafing.
Sophie and Alice deserve nothing but praise for bringing a touch of naughty fun and glamour to a sector that, despite everyone's best efforts, has a slightly dour image. No danger of that with an ethically-produced jewelled nipple tassel!
Find out more at the Holloway-Smith Noir website.
Monday, 9 January 2012
Building The Big Society
The idea of The Big Society is great - in concept. It's the Blitz Spirit writ large. Everyone does their bit, and together we forge a Britain that's a more compassionate and productive place.
The problem is that no-one can quite figure out how it's supposed to be done. Since the Coalition came to power, the Big Society concept has been relaunched four times. No-one seems sure what it is, what it means for us, and how it's supposed to work out there in the real world.
The problem, at least according to a Royal Society Of Arts study, is that of education. For the Big Society to work as more than an abstract concept, there needs to be a major push to make people aware not just of what they're expected to do under the scheme, but also what it can do for them. It's a tricky job to get right. It involves signing up and taking part in activities that the majority of the population don't believe are their responsibility.
David Cameron has tasked a workgroup to look into the problem. One of the first recommendations is a trench of formal and informal education that will help teach us about notions of solidarity and responsibility. Citizen school, in other words. It's not such a bad idea to my mind, but you do have to wonder where the money for it is coming from.
In fact, it's very easy to pick holes in what is after all an early working document. But it's clear what needs to happen. The Big Society concept has to be nudged away from a purely economic "we have to pull together because if we don't the country's going down the pan" argument, to a more social "it's fun and everyone benefits" strategy. We see ad hoc community efforts springing up all over the place, and the Big Society will be a success if it can figure out where they come from and replicate them on a country-wide scale. I still find it interesting that the RSA, rather than the charity and voluntary sectors are so heavily involved at this stage in proceedings. We'll see what the new workgroup comes up with. Who knows? Fourth time could be the charm.
(Side note: hello and Happy New 2012 to you all. The New Year resolution from The Blog At The End Of The Pier is an expansion of remit. I will be writing more often about the charity and voluntary sector, especially as this year would seem to be the one where Cameron's Big Society plans are more likely to impact upon them, and therefore on Pier 32 as a whole. It should be interesting to see what happens, and I hope you'll join me in finding out.)
The problem is that no-one can quite figure out how it's supposed to be done. Since the Coalition came to power, the Big Society concept has been relaunched four times. No-one seems sure what it is, what it means for us, and how it's supposed to work out there in the real world.
The problem, at least according to a Royal Society Of Arts study, is that of education. For the Big Society to work as more than an abstract concept, there needs to be a major push to make people aware not just of what they're expected to do under the scheme, but also what it can do for them. It's a tricky job to get right. It involves signing up and taking part in activities that the majority of the population don't believe are their responsibility.
David Cameron has tasked a workgroup to look into the problem. One of the first recommendations is a trench of formal and informal education that will help teach us about notions of solidarity and responsibility. Citizen school, in other words. It's not such a bad idea to my mind, but you do have to wonder where the money for it is coming from.
In fact, it's very easy to pick holes in what is after all an early working document. But it's clear what needs to happen. The Big Society concept has to be nudged away from a purely economic "we have to pull together because if we don't the country's going down the pan" argument, to a more social "it's fun and everyone benefits" strategy. We see ad hoc community efforts springing up all over the place, and the Big Society will be a success if it can figure out where they come from and replicate them on a country-wide scale. I still find it interesting that the RSA, rather than the charity and voluntary sectors are so heavily involved at this stage in proceedings. We'll see what the new workgroup comes up with. Who knows? Fourth time could be the charm.
(Side note: hello and Happy New 2012 to you all. The New Year resolution from The Blog At The End Of The Pier is an expansion of remit. I will be writing more often about the charity and voluntary sector, especially as this year would seem to be the one where Cameron's Big Society plans are more likely to impact upon them, and therefore on Pier 32 as a whole. It should be interesting to see what happens, and I hope you'll join me in finding out.)
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