A Beastie Of A Shoe. At Least It's For A Good Cause.

There are fascinating examples of fans buying products designed or promoted by their favourite brands or celebrities with little thought given to whether it's worth it. You could argue this goes all the way up to the week-long queues we used to see outside Apple stores for the latest iProduct. When I used to work in London's trendy Soho, I regularly witnessed block-long lines at cult streetwear store Supreme. Famously, once people queued for a Supreme-branded brick. Yep, a regulation-sized house brick stamped with the Supreme logo.

You do have to wonder if there's some sort of bet in place amongst certain well-placed designers as to what people will fork out on, and how ugly a design has to be before they will walk away. Case in point: the new sneaker endorsed by Beastie Boy Ad-Rock, which is now available for pre-order. Created in conjunction with vegan footwear company Keep, net profits from the sale of the shoe going to Planned Parenthood. Ad-Rock says:

“Given the outcome of our current election, it’s gonna get a lot colder before we can feel that summer sun again. So I collaborated with my friend, [Keep Shoes founder] Una [Kim], not just because I wanted warm sneaks, but because I support small business. I support women-run business. I support Asian-American-run business. Net proceeds of this shoe will be donated to Planned Parenthood because I support a woman’s right to choose and feel that women should not be punished for making decisions about their own lives and bodies.”  

All very admirable. Keep are well-known as a highly ethical, worker-supporting company, and Planned Parenthood are an exceptionally worthy cause. However, the problem is in the shoes themselves. They are pretty darn ugly. Made of nylon and cordura, with bungees instead of laces, they look more like nan-shoes than anything you'd want to be seen in on the street.

Here's the issue, then. Should you buy the shoe, or others like it, if you support a cause or like the endorsing artist, regardless of whether the item itself is unpleasing to the eye? Is this just a matter of taste, and I'm sneering at the Keep X Ad-Rock Ramos simply because they aren't to my taste? I mean, I'm hardly an exemplar of street style. But I fail to see how anyone would want those within safe minimum distance of their feet. 

Fashion and causes and celebrity endorsements have always been bedfellows, and the resultant offspring have frequently been a bit odd-looking. The Keep X Ad-Rock Ramos is just the latest example of that trend, and they're at least born out of the noblest of intentions. I just hope they're more comfortable than they look. 

Make A Sea Change With GROWN!

True insight into the damage we're doing to the environment comes from those that can see it up close and personal. The surfer community has long been at the forefront of the movement to do something about the man-made waste on our coastlines. Groups like Surfers Against Sewage have been proactive at keeping the poor state of some of our beaches in the news.

Now, a new bunch of surfy types are aiming to raise awareness with a fresh range of beautifully designed t-shirts. GROWN are three Irish guys with a passion for the waves, and a clear idea of how they can use ethical fashion to get their message of Sea Change across.

Stephen, Damien and Neill of GROWN started the business as a sideline, making t-shirts for their friends and family. As the designs became more popular, they realised they were onto a winner. But they were already aware of the problems around fashion, particularly in the way it can impact the environment. In fact, the logistical nightmare behind putting together a supply chain that satisfied their needs nearly scuppered the whole project. Co-founder and designer Stephen O'Reilly explains:

“We weren’t happy about the fashion industry that was around us; the throwaway lifestyle. We didn’t admire or approve of any of the brands that we were wearing and we wanted to change. We researched the company we wanted to be, a company that causes no unnecessary harm. We nearly pulled the plug on the project as we couldn’t find a way to create it without damaging the environment.”

Luckily, their extensive research paid off, and the GROWN boys have found a supplier that uses renewable energy and pays their workers fairly. For Stephen, though, anything less simply wouldn't do.

“...every brand should be doing this, it should be bog standard”.

GROWN's straightforward attitude, mixed with a clear passion for sending out the message makes them a refreshing new voice in sustainable fashion. Their debut campaign, Sea Change, is already making waves. Surf's up!

For more on the clothes and the mission, check out the GROWN website.

Give As You Live!

We talk a lot about 'conscious consumerism'–the idea that we can be better citizens to the planet simply by shopping in a more thoughtful and considered way. Which is a great idea in theory, but somehow loses something in practice. If it means a hit to our weekly budget, or that we have to go out of our way to find ethical or sustainable products, then we are much less likely to go down the conscious route.

But the boom in online shopping has forced something of a step-change, and has made the idea of conscious consumerism a lot more realistic for many of us. Much apart from the way that we can now connect with and buy from our favourite ethical retailers, there is a push towards charity giving as you shop.

Sites like QuickQuid have been a savvy shopper favourite for years. They work as a portal to the big online retailers, and by signing up you accrue points that mean you save money or snag rewards. By attracting more shoppers, the portals earn commission which allows them to make money and pass the savings on to you. Simple, eh?

Now there's Give As You Live. It works in exactly the same way as QuickQuid, but instead of rewards you earn money for your favourite charities. Sign up is simple and straightforward, and you're not limited to second-rate retailers. You can even do your weekly food shop. Worried that your charity might not be supported? There are currently 200,000 good causes to choose from, from well-known names like the Big issue Foundation all the way to local churches and social clubs. You can always reach out and persuade your charity to sign up, of course!

Give As You Live are clear about how much you'll earn for your cause: percentages depend on the charity and the retailer. Nothing's hidden, and there's a dedicated support team ready to help. They've raised over £7.5million since starting in 2010, and have won a stack of awards for the good work they've done for the sector. I honk on about finding clever new ways for charities to raise their fundraising game. This has to be one of the smartest.

Our View: Give As You Live seems like a no-brainer to us. An easy and transparent way to earn cash for charities while carrying on the retail adventures that you'd do online anyway. It costs you nothing but a couple of extra clicks. If you're already used to doing things the QuickQuid way, there's no learning curve at all. Check them out, and see if you can shunt some money towards your favourite good cause.

Start here.

Sing A New Song

In what seems to be turning into the Start-up Of The Week slot, let's take a look at a new initiative that's seeking to freshen up the image of sustainable fashion.

Birdsong aims to be different in every way. The brand has built a network of artisans from across the globe that have one thing in common: they're groups of women who are using their skills to fight for a better way of life. Birdsong currently work with 17 women’s organisations, reaching 483 female makers on the margins of society. This includes elderly, migrant and low income background women, women recovering from addictions, single mums, and survivors of human trafficking who are finding a new trade as goldsmiths.

By teaming these women with contemporary designers, Birdsong are able to produce modern clothing with a story, that helps to give a life and purpose back to the most down-trodden. But don't assume this is just a charity exercise. The items that Birdsong sell are designed to transcend the seasonal trap, and built to last for years. Using short lead times and limited runs, they can move quickly, respond to customer demand and still keep costs to a realistic level.

The Birdsong ethos even extends to the marketing. Their mantra is 'no Sweatshop, No Photoshop.' Instead of the usual over-glossy shoots common to the industry, Birdsong use models they find on the street, in shoot them in a natural way that includes no re-touching in post. It's all about celebrating the natural beauty all around us, and walking away from toxic, unreachable images that tell girls that they can never be pretty enough.

Birdsong's online platform has helped them to reach a solid base of fans, including celebrities like Bake-Off's Ruby Tandoh. But there's always more to be done. Founders Sophie and Sarah are fundraising to launch a pop-up shop, showcasing the quality of Birdsong's clothes. The good news is that they're already nearly two-thirds of the way there. Why not take a look, and see if you can help spread the word?

Birdsong's Crowdcube campaign is here: https://www.crowdcube.com/birdsong

Or check out the video below.

In a sidebar, I'm happy to note that this entry marks our 700th blogpost on The View From The Pier. We'd like to thank everyone that reads and helps to share our work. It's very much appreciated.

The Importance Of Branding To Ethical Business

These days, as any entrepreneur knows, it's not enough to have a great idea. You have to be able to market it in a way that lets people know as quickly as possible who you are and what you stand for.

In other words, you need a brand. This is doubly important if you're selling an ethical product or service.

Over on the Virgin Unite blog (Virgin are of course no slouches at this whole branding thing), some successful ethical business minds are offering useful and practical tips to help get you started. There's some real wisdom on display here.

Logos are desperately important. The right image can convey a lot about your business in a single glance. Get the design right, and it'll work on everything from posters to badges to social media avatars. It's like a flag that announces you and your business. Again, Virgin have nailed this, to the point where even the red of the logo is used in uniforms and livery.

Talking about social media... It's essential, of course. It can give you an opportunity to connect much more deeply with people if you use vectors like Twitter and Instagram to not just sell a product, but tell a story. The House Of Wandering Silk, for example (@wanderingsilk) use Instagram to show work in progress, and to highlight the people who make their amazing raw silk scarves and saris. It helps that the photos they post are drop dead gorgeous, of course.

Transparency is vital. If anything, it's the keystone from which everything in an ethical business should be grounded. People Tree, who are a pioneer in the Eco-fashion business, know all about this. CEO Safia Minney explains:

"Being transparent about who made our products, pioneering environmental innovation and creating a positive social impact through making our products is the DNA of People Tree and you must communicate this to your consumers through every aspect of your brand.”

There's a chance as well to use your brand for good. As Rachel Faller of Tonlé makes clear:

"a successful brand is one that educates its customers, and then provides a solution."

Her rebranding of Tonlé in 2014 as a zero-waste company was launched with a series of hard-hitting videos that have been used as educational tools, providing what she calls a 'light-bulb' moment that can change people's attitudes in a moment.

Our View: Those of us that think marketing and branding is just the icing on the cake of business need to understand that things have changed. In an ever-crowding marketplace you need to stand out, and using clever branding tools, a sharp logo and smart use of social media can be the way to get your ethical business off the ground and engaged with customers who want to not just buy your stuff, but hear your story.

Keep It Bright And Mismatched This Autumn With The Sock Lady!

Socks are important. On an island like Britain, where the weather is always a surprise, a decent pair of socks becomes a vital part of your wardrobe, whatever the season. After all, we Brits invented the socks and sandals look. Smart and practical, right?

Over the past few years, I've become increasingly obsessed with having decent socks. TK Maxx has revealed itself as a good stockist of bamboo items, which are hard-wearing and light. I am a massive advocate of alpaca too, which has anti-bacterial properties meaning that you can wear them for a week without needing to change them.

Well, alright, a few days.

In my dotage, I have also lost patience with the notion of socks needing to match. It's boring, especially if you have an eye for a bright pattern or a bold argyle. Better to mix it up and keep it funky.

I'm glad to see I'm not on my own in this. Marianne Wakerlin, AKA The Socklady, has been knitting for most of her life, after her mum taught her the gentle art at age nine. She decided to have fun with patterns and wild colours, deliberately making sure that the two socks in a pair didn't match. She found she was onto something. Friends and family members couldn't get enough of her crazy creations, and she realised that she had the germs of a business.

Founded in 2000, Solmate Socks now sells across the globe. They're made from recycled cotton (hence the intentional differences in colour) and knitted in a small, family-run mill in Marianne's home state of Vermont, before being hand-finished. The socks are soft and cosy: just the sort of item that draws one's attention now that Autumn is round the corner (sorry, but it is). Grab a pair online, and see just how much simpler your life can be when you don't have to fuss about finding two socks that match in the morning!

For more, check out the Solmate Socks site (link leads to the UK store, or find them on Amazon).

Smarten up Your T-shirt Game With Son Of A Tailor

The t-shirt. One of the most fundamental parts of the modern wardrobe. It's become so ubiquitous that it can be worn at almost any event. Dressed up or cooled down, the simplicity of the garment means it's incredibly adaptable.

But the universal appeal comes with an issue. That is, that most t-shirts simply don't fit us properly. Think about it. We're different shapes and sizes. A dazzling variety of trunk length, shoulder width and so on. The notion of 'small, medium or large' simply can't be expected to cover the infinite variety of the human frame. In fact, research suggests that nearly 80% of us can't find t-shirts that fit properly.

The only solution would seem to be going down the custom-made route, which until recently would have been prohibitively expensive. But the phenomenon of crowd-funded companies that are able to cut costs has seen a rise in the availability of luxury products at bargain prices.

The latest of these is Son Of A Tailor, a Copenhagen-based startup that sees a well-fitting t-shirt as the core of a stylish outfit. Using a smart algorithm that can calculate the perfect fit with the need for a mass of measurements, Son Of A Tailor claim that they'll get the fit right first time over 95% of the time. If it isn't, they'll replace the garment for free.

The tees are made from organic cotton, with a built-in shrinkage ratio. So, as opposed to your shop-bought garment getting too tight after a couple of washes, Son Of A Tailor t-shirts will fit perfectly for longer.

With options for customisation including sleeve length and neck width, and a discount if you buy a stack at a time, Son Of A Tailor seems to be a smart way to upgrade your t-shirt game. If an item fits correctly and keeps its shape then you're more likely to wear and keep it for longer. Altogether now with the Sustainability Mantra–Spend More, Buy Less, Choose Wisely.

Son Of A Tailor won't rejuvenate the t-shirt trade overnight, of course. And sometimes you just want a cheap, baggy logo t-shirt to bum around in. But a rethink of a traditional model is always a good plan, and I for one am intrigued to see if these guys can give us a better option for those times when we just want to smarten up a little more.

For more, check out the website: https://www.sonofatailor.com

Why One Writer Fell Out Of Love With Benetton

Brand loyalty is a vital part of fashion marketing. It's why you see so many Superdry clothes on the street. The logos are clear, plain and obvious. You know what you're getting.

You're also investing in a certain image, of course. Those of us who wear sports brands are advertising that we have at least thought about the idea of doing something athletic, even if that does turn out to be watching the footie in the pub.

But then there are the brands that allow you to align yourself with a more socially responsible agenda. H&M have for years tried to become the conscious choice–not, it has to be said, with 100 percent success. But one brand has a history of shouting out about social injustice, through the awesome power of slightly dodgy pullovers. That company is Benetton.

You could be forgiven for slotting Benetton into the 'do you remember?' files. But back in the day, the brand and their edgy, direct advertising were everywhere. United Colors Of Benetton preached equality, and campaigned for AIDS research and against racism in a way that reached out to a high street audience. Sure, they were sometimes controversial (one poster depicted the moment a young guy died of AIDS-related illness, surrounded by his distraught family) but the headlines and the profits kept rolling in.

That stance made Benetton fans out of a lot of people, who bought the clothes partly with the understanding that their money was going to a company that cared. One of them was Stylianee, who wrote movingly about her relationship with the brand on What Eve Wears. She bought Benetton for the same reasons that all of us that invest in ethical fashion do: the clothes were long-lasting, and the company behind them seemed to have a soul.

But Stylianee's story is one of heartbreak. She realised that, over the years, Benetton has become just another fast fashion brand. She says:

Benetton, the brand I always admired for its creative and provocative marketing campaigns, its visual bravado for love and equality, its Social Responsibility Strategy, the UNHATE Foundation and so on so forth, that Benetton that fascinated me, it perspires (sic) that it was doing exactly the opposite of what it was preaching: it was producing in sweatshop conditions and it was polluting the environment without batting an eye.

Worse yet, she discovered that Benetton was one of the brands found to be making clothes in Rana Plaza. They would eventually pay compensation, but only after a bruising PR exposé that pulled apart their caring, sharing image and showed them to be just another greedy fast fashion outlet.

There's some good news that comes from this. Stylianee now organises Fashion Revolution events in her native Greece. She also keeps an eye on her old favourite, as part of the #WhoMadeMyClothes? initiative. She notes that Benetton seems to be moving production to the Balkans and Eastern Europe, perhaps over the outcry post-Rana Plaza.

But her story is one that's worth sharing, especially if you're a fan of one particular clothing line. Do they do what they say, and source responsibly? Or has the bloom gone off the rose, leaving something that smells a little rotten? If in doubt, check the label, do a little digging... and prepare to fall out of love with your favourite brand.

 

Pack Less This Holiday Season With Unbound Apparel

We're now in peak holiday season. For most of us that means figuring out how much of our lives we can cram into suitcases, hopefully avoiding the weight restrictions.

Now, I could get all preachy and talk about how ethically unsound the whole process of going on holiday is. We buy a load of new clothes, towels and lotions, much of which will be used a couple of times before going back into landfill. We jam onto overloaded planes that use millions of gallons of precious fuel a year, descending on previously unspoilt resorts that are now polluted hellholes of nasty bars and cheap hotels.

I could do that, but it would be uncouth.

Instead, let's talk about a new initiative taking off on IndieGoGo that might just lessen the environmental load a little bit. Unbound Apparel takes the idea of holiday packing, and applies the 'less is more' principle to it in a really innovative way.

Think about how you pack for a fortnight away. Half the weight in your suitcases is down to the two weeks worth of clothes that has to go in there. 14 days-worth of pants, socks and base layers. Reducing that load would go a long way towards dropping the amount you take away with you.

Unbound Apparel has created a simple kit that could shrink that two-week load down to a single set of pants, socks and t-shirt. The garments are made from merino wool, which is naturally moisture-wicking and odour-repellent. In simple terms, clothes made from merino stay fresh, wrinkle-free and wearable for weeks. Unless you accidentally spill moussaka down your top, there's no need to wash them. Even then, merino rinses easily and dries in a flash.

Normally, merino is hideously expensive. Not surprising, really–it's a highly prized fibre, normally used for high-performance active wear. But the team behind Unbound Apparel have done that crowd-fundy thing of cutting out the middleman. This means they can offer a set of undies, socks and t-shirt for $110. That's fifty percent saved on the normal retail price of this sort of item. The t-shirt is simply styled to go with pretty much any outfit. The pants and socks are the best you'll ever wear.

Imagine cutting the usual two-suitcase load for a holiday trip down to a backpack. Imagine being able to blow past the luggage carousel and get straight on with your break. Imagine the savings on fuel if we all did that.

Well-known thinkers and leaders like Steve Jobs and Mark Zuckerberg are famous for cutting down on their wardrobe choices, for devising a costume and sticking to it. It's one less thing to think about in the morning. On holiday, we will often buy a ton of new clothes that we'll never wear again. Sometimes, we don't even wear them on the break they were specifically bought for. This summer, why not spend a little more on gear that could be part of your travel wardrobe for years to come?

Pack less. Holiday more. Makes sense, right?

For more, check out Unbound Apparel's IndieGoGo page: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/unbound-apparel-the-ultimate-travel-hack--2#/?ref=10.go2.fund&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=10.go2.fund

How To Build A Pair Of Shoes

It's Friday, and I'm on my hols, apparently. Busy old week, with trips to That London (we strongly recommend the new Switch Room galleries at Tate Modern) and Countryfile Live (some good foodie stuff, but any event that depends almost entirely on road transport for access will have problems–a seven-mile tailback to get into site takes some of the fun out of the day). Fresh air and a lot of exercise. Frankly, I'm cream-crackered.
So, something light and simple for our Friday post. I'm a big fan of Tricker's Shoes. Sturdy, hand-made items that are designed to last for more than a lifetime. Seriously, Tricker's footwear is handed down from father to son. Sure, they cost more. But they're not throw-away items. And as locally-made items that support British artisans, they're a brand to celebrate. One day I shall own a pair. Oh yes, one day.
I came across a short video that looks into the hard work and attention to detail that goes into the creation of a bespoke pair of Tricker's shoes. If you're a fan of process videos or the slow shows on making chairs or kitchen knives that BBC Four does so well, then you're in for a treat here. Take a couple of minutes to enjoy this.

Trump's Honduras Horror

Those of you with the slightest interest in American politics may have heard of Donald Trump. The Republican nominee for United States President has split the country down the middle, horrifying as many as he fascinates.
A major theme of his campaign stance is his promise to bring jobs back to America. He wants to restart industry in the moribund Heartland states, the core of his support. But Trump can be as guilty of outsourcing as his opponents. Take, for example, the well-shared photo of his iconic 'Make America Great Again' cap, highlighting its 'Made In China' tag.
It's no surprise that many items that bear the Trump branding are made overseas. But, as a coruscating Buzzfeed article recently made clear, clothes made using Trump's name are cut and sewn in factories with some of the worst worker's rights records out there.
Honduras is not known for a progressive approach to dealing with the people who work in the huge garment factories that crank out clothing for multinational brands. In fact, workers are often abused and silenced if they dare to make a stand.
Protexsa, a company owned by one of Honduras' highest-ranked families, holds a reputation for tough conditions even in an environment that treats workers as second-class citizens. The factory floor often reaches temperatures of 105 degrees. But people on the line limit themselves to small sips of water as they work. Even toilet breaks could cause them to slip behind quota and lose the production bonuses that allow them to live instead of just survive.
Worker Rights Consortium, a labour-rights monitoring organisation based in Washington investigated Protexsa in 2013. That followed concerns about the clothing the factory produced for the City of Los Angeles. WRC's report concluded Protexsa to be in 'serious violation' of fair working conditions. Workers were forced to take mandatory six-day weeks and faced abusive supervisors.
Until 2014, when records become unavailable, thousands of items of Trump-branded clothing came out of Protexsa. The clothes were marketed as luxury items. They were bound for stores like Macy's (who recently stopped stocking the brand following Trump's derogatory statements on Latino workers).  But their manufacture took place in an environment that was anything but.
The Republican nominee's organisation is keeping a tight lid on details about the sources of Trump-branded products. This is unsurprising, as scrutiny of the man and his business practices will only increase as we head towards November. It'll be interesting to see what new insights we glean about the most divisive Presidential candidate in recent US history, based on the way he sources his production.

The Most Vital Weapon Against Fast Fashion: Education!

It's all too easy to make noise about ethical fashion, but we live in a noisy world. Shouting is one thing, but education is a much smarter way to make sure that future generations understand that the current fashion model is broken. And that there's a lot they can do about it.

Let's talk about the kids. They've grown up in a world where fast fashion is the norm. Many school-age kids have never known a time without Primark or Zara. But they've also been born into an age where information is available at any time, whenever they need it. And they know how to communicate. People my age think Facebook and Twitter are the nuts, but for the so-called millenials these vectors are like rotary-dial telephones. They're smart, and super-connected.

Which means that kids today have a lot of power when it comes to influencing the future of fashion, as creators and consumers. But how do we educate them to be the thoughtful, informed citizens of the fashion-verse that we'd like to see?

An article earlier this year on The Note Passer has a ton of great tips and resources to help us all give school-age kids the information they need to make the right choices. A couple of examples:

The appearance of documentaries on different aspects of fast fashion mean that there's great materials out there to watch and discuss afterwards. The big one, of course, is The True Cost, easily available on Netflix. It provides a solid overview of the whole scene, and asks some serious questions. But films such as Udita! which follows the rise of garment worker activism in Bangladesh, or Unravel which explores how we have come to discard millions of tons of perfectly usable clothes every year are really useful as well.

It's also important to look at the culture of materialism through which fast fashion has found a solid foundation from which to grow. Kids are swamped by adverts, taught how to "bargain-hunt" and encouraged to spend whether or not they actually need the clothes they're buying. By unpacking the message and the manipulation, we're able to give kids the tools to be able to make more informed choices, and even to walk away with their money still in their pockets.

All of this is vital, but one point that The Note Passer makes is key. In order to educate our kids, we have to know what we're talking about. They'll be full of questions, and can sniff out bull at a hundred paces. So it's vital that we educate ourselves as well. If we're serious about giving our kids the tools they need to navigate a complicated issue, we should know how to use them as well. Honesty is important though: it's ok to say you don't know. In fact, sometimes it's better to find out about the important issues together.

 

Making It Socially with Simon James Cathcart

Ethical fashion would not be the growing phenomenon it is, I think, had a couple of factors not come into play within a short period. The first, of course, is social media. The ability to talk to a wide audience, to share news and ideas with like-minded people across the globe has been a huge boon for the cause, opening up closed and opaque systems and letting us see the truth behind the fashion industry spin.

With social media comes the idea of community. A shared set of interests will always have us gathering in groups. From there we can see the short step it takes to using the influence that many people can have when they work together in new and interesting ways. In the 19th century, with the advent of cheap publishing, we ended up with the union movement. That great push for change still resonates today, and indeed social media has had a hand in bringing unionisation to previously closed shops in the Third World.

In the 21st century, crowdfunding has become a way to get products and services onto a global stage in a way that could never have been imagined even forty years previously. If you have a good idea and the potential to get it to market, it’s easier than ever to get the funding you need by effectively selling the product in advance. Obviously there can be downsides to this approach, and it’s a rare Kickstarter customer that hasn’t been burned with a late or non-existent product. That’s part of the risk, but the rewards benefit everyone.

Which brings us to Simon James Cathcart, who has taken the best of both social media and crowdfunding to bring his sharp spin on contemporary men’s clothing to light. Simon uses his enthusiastic band of followers to help dictate the path of his seasonal collections, with the understanding that they will then pledge to get them to market. He uses a good old-fashioned forum on his website to help build that sense of community and interest in the clothes. Users chat, share ideas and enthusiastically get involved.

In some ways, what Simon does works in the same way as bands and artists like Marillion or Amanda Palmer, embracing a core audience with the understanding that they will cheerfully invest in any new project. It’s a concept called The Long Tail, and if you have or can develop a fan base it works brilliantly.

It helps, of course, that Simon has already made a name for himself with his sharply-tailored modern takes on classic men’s apparel. He’s taken a smart approach to building on the momentum, striding off in a direction that other creative types in the fashion field could do well to emulate. After all, why give a chunk of your profits to Kickstarter when you can do it all yourself? For more, and to perhaps express an interest in Simon James Cathcart’s A/W 2016 collection, hit up

http://www.simonjamescathcart.com

An Ethical Foundation To Your Wardrobe: Mighty Good Undies!

Pants. We all need them. We all wear them. They're the bedrock of any outfit.

And yet, for the most part, we don't think about them. Once they wear out, we bin them and buy a new pack in M&S. Job done. Which is a worry of course, as pants are as much a part of fashion as any other garment, and equally a factor of the ethical and environmental challenges fashion faces. So it's in our best interests to look at our pants drawer and think... could we do better?

That is a question asked by new start-up Mighty Good Undies, who are into the last week of a fundraising campaign through StartSomeGood. The founders, Hannah Parris and Elena Antoniou, wanted to put the same focus and attention that is placed on the more glamourous items in our wardrobe and apply them to an everyday clothing staple.

Mighty Good Undies are starting with a core range of styles, (men’s trunks, women’s boy leg and the women’s granny (full) briefs) all of which are made from organic, fairtrade cotton. They are designed to be soft, comfortable and long-lasting. And looking good, of course. Well, you never know, right?

The ethical impact of Mighty Good Undies is just as important as the looks, though. Hannah’s first-hand experience with ethical fashion design and supply-chains in India led her to an internationally recognised supplier of organic and Fairtrade produced cotton, Chetna Organics and its production partner, Rajlakshmi Cotton Mills. Teaming up with Chetna meant the Mighty Good crew could get their cotton at a good price, and be sure that the supply chain it came from paid its workers fairly.

There's a bigger vision at play with Mighty Good Undies, though. They're after change at the mainstream level, demonstrating to the mass market that comfortable and ethical underwear can be affordable. Currently we produce 24.5 million tonnes of cotton. About 0.5 tonnes of that total is ethically produced. That has to change. It's a big job, and you may as well start doing it in a good pair of pants.

 

With less than a week to go on their crowdfunding campaign, there's still time to show your support for Mighty Good Undies and pick up some early bird bargains. For more info and to snag a pair (or two), head over to https://www.startsomegood.com/mightygood

More Bad News On Fire Safety From H&M

Two weeks ago, we reported on H&M's broken promises to clean up their act. We showed how as the multinational was piggybacking on Fashion Revolution Week, news was emerging on how some of their factories were yet to comply with the safety needs of the Bangladeshi Accord. In short, while they were trumpeting their sustainability credentials, many of their workplaces are no safer than before Rana Plaza.

H&M's annual shareholder meeting took place yesterday in Sweden. As expected, activists hit the streets to give their opinion on the high street giant. Worldwide demonstrations took place outside H&M stores, and protester's anger was fuelled by new reports that paint an even bleaker picture of the brand's ignored responsibilities to their workforce.

Figures from a further 22 factories have been released which, alongside the numbers from the 32 H&M suppliers already questioned, show that over 60% of the Swedish giant's Bangladeshi suppliers are yet to come up to code with fire-rated exits–the lack of which have caused hundreds of deaths and injuries since Rana Plaza, over three years ago.

These dreadful numbers have largely come to light through H&M's own commitment to transparency. In fact, the International Labour Rights Forum has commended H&M for its open policy in releasing their progress on fire safety in their factories. But this painfully slow pace of essential renovation, over three years since one of fast fashion's darkest hours, is nothing to brag about.

Organiser of the protest outside H&M's Times Square flagship store, Amy DuFault, is quoted in Ecouterre giving a damning indictment of the brand's ethical standards. She says:

"H&M is about to open its 4,000th store in New Delhi later this month. Obviously their sights are set on growth rather than the safety of their workers. Yet when it comes to their responsibilities under the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety, movement is seemingly at a snail’s pace. So I have a hard time with H&M ever calling themselves sustainable or conscious in any way when they can’t protect the very people making their clothing. Doesn’t that seem like the most basic part of sustainability? Provide a safe workplace where people don’t get killed or maimed?”

The anger and frustration is clear and palpable. It's increasingly obvious that, while on the one hand H&M are becoming more transparent and open, that very transparency is revealing a company that says one thing and does another. Or, when it comes to making their factories safe places to work, does very little.

 

Ethical Silk: Luxury With A Conscience.

Silk brings many associations to mind. Luxurious, expensive, indulgent. But ethical and good for you? Probably not. Well let's reconsider that.
 
Despite its feather light feel and breathable quality, silk is incredibly effective at temperature regulation. It helps the body retain warmth in colder weather and expel heat in warm weather, making it the perfect, all year round wardrobe staple. It boasts hypoallergenic properties and the fabric's extremely soft texture also makes it a wonderful option for individuals suffering from sensitive skin conditions. All in all, a sensible choice if, like me, you're a sensitive soul.
 
With that in mind, we're delighted to highlight an Irish-based boutique who specialise in silk with an ethical twist. The Ethical Silk Company are launching a new range of loungewear, but they have always had a good base range of items crafted from speciality Ahimsa Peace Silk.


Silk is, of course, a naturally produced fibre made by silkworms. But the Ethical Silk Company only use mulberry silk, sourced by an Indian company, Ahimsa Silk, that supplies the fibre extracted after the worm has completed metamorphosis and emerged from its cocoon. This non-violent and eco-friendly harvesting technique is obviously more animal-friendly, and ties into an ethos that respects every part of the process that goes into making the garments. Once harvested, the Ethical Silk Company tasks Jaipur based fair-trade tailoring unit Mehera Shaw to precision craft every item, ensuring exceptional quality.



With a focus on both style and comfort, the new loungewear collection is the perfect way to indulge this summer. Garments include sumptuously soft silk robes, sexy camisole and short sets, elegant under slips, versatile vests and ultra-comfortable palazzo style pants.
 
This new collection introduces the artisan craft of block printing. The silk is printed by hand to create unique pieces, a centuries old tradition in India. The range is available in four colours - ivory, the natural colour of mulberry silk, lunar grey and two original block prints - teal and grey/coral and grey. Designed so the pieces can be matched and interchanged with any of the colours of the range, this new collection celebrates versatility and style while enjoying the pure comfort of natural mulberry silk.
 
Eva Power, founder of The Ethical Silk Company says:
 

"We've been working on a new line for several months now and can't wait to unveil the collection. Subtle, stylish and inherently opulent, the loungewear range is the perfect way to bring a touch of luxury and comfort to indoor wardrobes."

But there's more. The Ethical Silk Company also stock pure silk pillowcases–a luxurious gift with unprecedented benefits for the skin and hair. The pillowcases are indulgent yet practical, perfect for women who want to look after their hair. Did you know that sleeping on silk helps to retain hair's natural moisture and prevent breakage? Silk pillowcases are the perfect luxury present for someone who has everything with the added bonus of being machine washable.
 
True to its name, The Ethical Silk Company not only sources responsibly harvested silk but is also an active contributor to global communities. 10% of all profits are donated to charity - 5% to homeless cause Focus Ireland and 5% to Thenis Jeevan Jyothi AIDS Centre in India.
 
For more information on the Ethical Silk Co and to browse the online collection of stunning silk creations, visit: http://www.theethicalsilkco.com.
 

Community Clothing: Kickstarting British Textiles

We like to think that, given the upsurge in demand for clothing from the fast fashion boom, that our factories are full to bursting. Sadly, that's simply not the case, especially in the UK. Many of them suffer from deeply seasonal trade, and lulls in orders can lead to layoffs. Or worse, closure. There has to be a way to plug the gap.

A Kickstarter that will reach its funding target today should help, with an idea that could easily be utilised across the sector. Community Clothing views that spare factory capacity as an opportunity–to create authentically styled and carefully made British classics at a highly affordable price.

The idea is that of a new kind of co-operative. Like-minded workers uniting across the design studio and factory floor, coming together to help create something wonderful.

How do you keep quality high and costs low? The answer is simple...or rather, simplicity. Community Clothing will make a small set of items–jeans, Harrington jackets and raincoats. No huge inventory requiring complex procedures. The clothes are stripped back, clean, pure design classics that have the advantage of being simple to assemble. The materials are sourced from a very local area, in most cases no more from 25 miles from the factory in Blackburn, Lancashire.

This stripped back approach means that Community Clothing can use the same premium materials as high-end brands, and offer them at half the cost. The jeans are made from 12oz selvege denim, the jackets from high-quality cotton twill. Buttons are horn, not plastic. These garments are built to look good and last.

But the mission has a higher aim then simply to create great clothes. We're looking at nothing less than the rejuvenation of the British textile tradition. This quote from the Kickstarter says it all:

"By using local suppliers of fabrics, buttons, labels, and as many other products and service as we can we will create even more jobs within the communities where we make our clothes. And with our profits we will invest in programmes in those same communities where the factories are located, supporting skills training, personal development programmes and apprenticeships, programmes that help people into skilled jobs in the textile and garment industry."

Our View: Community Clothing are mixing smart thinking with real heart, taking spare capacity and creating something that brings benefits to everyone involved. If you get a wiggle on (i.e. today) you can still snap up a bargain bundle of sharp, British-designed and made classics. This is a model that deserves to be copied and grown across the country. When the community benefits, we all benefit.

Find out more at Community Clothing's Kickstarter page: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/267973823/community-clothing-make-clothes-create-jobs-restor/description

 

Buy Me Once

Boots: yr humble author's daily kicks. Two years of solid wear so far.
A prime example of walking it like you talk it. 

I hope we all know the mantra by now. Choose Well, Buy Less, Spend More. It's a key tenet of sustainability, straight from Pier Crush Vivienne Westwood. This blog has a remit to cover clothes and fashion, and in particular the way fast fashion has changed the rules over what we wear and how and when we buy. But of course you can see that throwaway aesthetic in just about everything. If something is cheap, then it doesn't matter if it breaks. Just buy more. How many mobile phones have you bought in the last ten years? How many cheap pans that have lasted a year before the handle falls off? How many pens?

It's easy for me to roll my eyes at this Don't Think, Spend Less, Buy More way of life. But it's not easy to choose wisely. The internet is the great leveller, but with so much choice how on earth do you Choose Wisely?

Well, that was a question advertising creative Tara Button kept asking herself. So she went out and looked. Tara has spent the last year putting together a collection of the best in affordable homewear, accessories, kitchen goods and of course, clothes and shoes. It's not just about items that will go the distance, but classic, beautiful designs that simply shrug off the fickle wash of trend, staying true to themselves. The result: Buy Me Once. Tara gave us an idea of her mission:-

For some reason, we feel the need to change what we wear, what we use and what our homes look like – and we do this constantly. The fashion and home industries depend on us growing bored or ashamed of our old (often perfectly usable stuff) and throwing it away in favour of their shiny new offerings.
We're looking for the classic designs that will go the distance. They might not be 'bang on trend' but they won't be embarrassing next week either.

Buy Me Once is a fledgeling, but Tara's sharp eye for long-lasting classics shines through in the list of goodies she's gathered together. From LK Bennett and good old Doctor Marten's boots to La Creuset cookwear, I found myself nodding at the choices she's made. She's open to suggestions as well, so drop her a line if you know of a great sustainable brand that fits the remit. With hints and tips to help you take care of the things you love, Buy Me Once has the potential to become a great resource for those of us who don't mind spending a little more to get a lifetime's wear out of something great.

She has a long game too, and this is where things get interesting. Tara wants to change our whole culture, from "throwaway" to "keep or pass on", using the brand as a signifier of goods that will last and look good. She also wants to set up an ethical credit line, to help people spend wisely on goods that might otherwise be outside their budget, but would actively save them money in the long run. We can do no more than applaud. That, after all, is the Pier32 way.

Our View: keep an eye on Buy Me Once. It's an initiative that's been thought through sensibly, but has a real passion and urge to change our broken relationship with lifestyle products at its core. We're instant fans, and I urge you to check the site out, show Tara your support and hell, maybe even use it as an excuse to snag that pair of oxblood Docs you've always wanted.

Get your ass over to Buy Me Once. Take that first step to a more ethical home.

Are H&M&S Failing In Their Ethical Promises?

Sometimes it feels like sustainable fashion has turned a corner, only to find a car barrelling directly at it. Take two of the most recognisable names on the high street–H&M and M&S (a pairing that just cries out for the acronym H&M&S). They regularly push their sustainable credentials, launching capsule collections and entering into collaborations with eco-fashionistas like Livia Firth.

And yet, when it comes to promises around key ethical issues like a living wage for their foreign garment workers, both giant brands are failing. That is, according to activist group Labour Behind The Label, who have just published a report on the situation in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and India.

The findings make grim reading for those who believe that H&M&S are making a difference in getting sustainability into the mainstream. Labour Behind The Label found that in eight factories scattered around the research area, workers were still living in abject poverty. In many cases, workers were bringing home less than half the money they needed to live in anything other than slum conditions. Forced to buy food on credit, they have a permanent place on the debt spiral.

Anna McMullen, lead author on the report, is damning in her conclusions. She says:

“Both brands have hung their ethical credentials around this key human rights issue, to great applause, but without reporting clearly on the outcomes of the schemes. While consumers are left to trust that what was said is being done, many are left wondering about the real impact of the promises that were made.”

M&S, meanwhile, have been robust in defending their policies and the rollout of wage increases since 2010. A spokesman reported:

“There’s always more to be done due to the complex nature of the clothing supply chain and we cannot determine the wages paid to supplier employees. However, we are committed to ensuring our cost prices remain high enough to pay a fair living wage, training workers in financial literacy and worker rights, and playing our part in collaborating with other brands and governments to improve the sector.”

That defence tells us a lot, and explains in part the difficulty in making a supply chain fair to all. The business is so bewilderingly complex that it's impossible to guarantee the changes you make will be properly implemented. Oversight on the changes is next to impossible when employees are paid cash in hand through a piecework model of compensation.

However, H&M are still at an early stage in their scheme to improve worker conditions. Their roadmap to change was only published in 2013, and the programme is due to run until 2020. Labour Behind The Label urges H&M to look at what M&S have accomplished, and learn from their mistakes. A particular problem: benchmarks, or rather the lack of them. Currently, H&M are setting wage rates at their workers' “own opinion of what a decent living wage is.” This is pretty meaningless, and gives no real figures for trade unions to negotiate with. Setting proper, researched benchmarks and keeping things transparent are, the report concludes, by far the best way to ensure that garment workers in South East Asia are treated and paid fairly.

Our View: frankly, we think it's unrealistic to expect root-and-branch change in in ground supply chain practices overnight. When a single item of clothing can have its material sourced on one continent, its accessories on a second before being assembled in yet a third, ensuring fairness and transparency is an incredibly difficult job. Nevertheless, it's good that groups like Labour Behind The Label are keeping the big brands on task, and making sure that the rhetoric doesn't outstrip the reality.

You can read the full report here.

 

Our ExCel-Lent Friends - CTC

Last week, yr humble author and Guru Ian took a trip to London, visiting a big outdoor show in London's ExCel Centre. It gave them a chance to meet some of their pals, and find out a little more about what's going on in their world. This week, I'm opening up the blog to them.

Our last visit of the week is to CTC, a charity with a long and storied history. It began back in 1878 as the Bicycle Touring Club. Originally, the club was a gathering of like-minded types around the ever-increasingly popular pastime. But over the years the remit has expanded. Along with a name change to Cyclist's Touring Club, CTC has become an advocate for everyone that believes two wheels and your own effort are a great, safe and healthy way to get around. 

CTC are a big part of British cycling. They developed the first cycling proficiency test in 1936, one that has been officially adopted and is still in use today. CTC is still at the forefront of bike safety training and Bikeability. 

All of this becomes obvious and important when we realise just how popular cycling has become in the UK as a sport, a healthy pastime and a great mode of transportation. Studies indicate that the majority of rush hour traffic in the next couple of years will be cycles. For most urban journeys, the bike beats both bus and car for speed, efficiency and cost. 

It's worrying, therefore, to see the press, local government and even the courts appear to be actively against the notion of cycling on Britain's roads. The image of the lycra-clad lout is all-pervasive, and horribly inaccurate. CTC are working hard to change that. Recent CTC campaigns include Road Justice, which seeks a justice system that discourages bad driving, educates drivers to a higher standard and takes bad drivers off the roads, and Action On Lorries, pushing for an end to the slaughter on the roads that led to six cyclists dying under the wheels of lorries in just two weeks.  

Of course, CTC are there for the fun stuff as well, and can help you organise ride-outs, gatherings and even cycling holidays. In short, if you think two wheels good, CTC is the organisation for you. You can support through donations, but membership gives you access to all sorts of goodies, from the bi-monthly magazine to third-party insurance! 

To find out more about CTC and how they can help your cycling life, just check out the website.