2015: The Year At The Pier

 

2015 has been, to put it mildly, an eventful year. In our little corner of the world, we've seen all sorts of changes and innovations. As usual, I'd like to take a bit of time on the last day of the year to look back on our coverage of ethical fashion and the charity world over the last twelve months.

 

In January, we celebrated with our friends at Sea Shepherd as they used a huge donation in the best way possible: they bought a new ship! We also took a look at a fascinating web series that took Norwegian fashion bloggers a little closer than comfortable to the Cambodian factories where many of the clothes they wrote about were sewn: Life In The Sweatshop.

 

February gave yr humble author the chance to talk film, as I looked at the ethical tailoring that was front and centre in the spy thriller Kingsman: The Secret Service. Not surprising, when Colin and Livia Firth are involved... We also reviewed the brilliant work done by our chums at East African Playgrounds for the kids (and parents) of Uganda, giving the gift of play.

 

March brought a new campaign from our pals at the charity Delete Blood Cancer, showing just how simple and easy it is to register as a blood stem cell donor. Meanwhile, in a trend that became much more happily prevalent in 2015, Levi's released data on their water use, and revealed how they plan to improve matters.

 

April saw us delightedly reviewing John Oliver's take on the state of the fashion industry on his satirical news show Last Week Tonight, bringing the subject to a wider audience. It was a good month for visual media, as we also previewed an exciting new documentary on the fashion scene, The True Cost.

 

May came along with a new play showing the gamification of the fashion industry (and how easy it can be to treat the people who make the clothes as disposable assets): The World Factory. We also took a peek at how our chums at Hubbub are making it fun to keep the streets of London a bit tidier: #neatstreets.

 

Halfway through the year already? Blimey! In June we introduced Tom Cridwell's fast-fashion busting 30-Year Sweatshirt, a clever subversion of the buy-and-buy-again model (and a celebration of Pier Crush Vivienne Westwood's notion of Choose Well, Spend More, Buy Less). In the same vein, we agreed with upcycling guru Orsola De Castro on how true sustainability can only come when clothes are built to last (which also gave us the opportunity to post a video to a disco classic): Use it Up, Wear It Out.

 

In July we carried on in that theme, looking at the ultimate in throw-away clothing: the 99p Dress. We also cast a worried eye over the demonisation of charity fund-raising, following the death by suicide of Olive Cooke, who it was feared had died under the pressure she felt she was under to donate. This story was one of the mainstays of the year in charity...

 

...although the big news story of 2015 for the Third Sector dropped in August with the collapse of Kid's Company. David Cameron's favourite charity combusted spectacularly, with major questions about their fund-raising and influence in high places. In the US, we examined American Apparel's change of direction, as they moved away from sexy ads following the sacking of controversial CEO Dov Charney.

 

September brought Pier Crush Vivienne Westwood out onto the front lines, as she used London Fashion Week to protest against fracking, and rolled a tank into David Cameron's home village. We also celebrated the work of our pals at Animal Defenders International, who are working to make circuses a cruelty-free zone.

 

And all of a sudden, it's autumn. October saw us looking at alternatives to leather that included banana and jellyfish! We also reviewed a new look for the Ethical Fashion Forum, as they launched an umbrella initiative, Mysource.

 

November rolled around, and with it applause for John Lewis. They launched the most talked about Christmas ad of the year in conjunction with Age UK, bringing the plight of lonely older people in the festive season well and truly into the public eye. We also took a look at a new idea from The Big Issue–retraining homeless people as coffee baristas. This caffeine-fuelled writer strongly approves...

 

And all of a sudden it's December! We welcomed a big new name in the charity sector–none other than Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg. We also looked at the work of Raven & Lily, an ethical fashion house giving refugees in Bangladeshi camps the chance to bring themselves out of poverty. As the crisis in Syria deepens, responses like this become ever more necessary. We need to understand and empower, not demonise and blame.

 

So, that's 2015 at The Pier. It's been a good year for us, and we hope to build on our successes in 2016 to bring you the best and latest news from the worlds of ethical fashion and charity. Don't forget, our offices reopen at 9am on Monday the 4th for all your customisable needs. We look forward to talking to you.

 

From Gerry, Ian and I: HAPPY NEW YEAR!

 

 

Noble Wool For Elegant Occasions

The weather has closed in. It's dark in the morning, and dark when you leave work. As winter takes hold, we start digging through our wardrobes for winter wear. For many of us, that means reuniting with woollen garments.

Ah, wool. We've waxed lyrical on these pages many times about the stuff. It's eminently sustainable, of course: insert grass into sheep, and there it is, every year. The fibres are durable, water-resistant, breathable, anti-bacterial, completely natural and, if you pick the right manufacturer, eminently local. Scottish wool, still a spit and a whistle away from us in the UK in relation to its nearest natural rival, New Zealand, is the best on the planet. It's a no-brainer.

But when we think of wool, we think in terms of chunky sweaters, thick scarfs, heavy socks. Actually, alpaca is best for socks, but I digress. What I'm getting at is that there's a bit of an image problem when it comes to wool. The words sleek, elegant and tailored do not come to mind when we consider the fabric. That's not just a shame–it's completely inaccurate.

Our dapper chums over at The Tweed Pig reported recently on a new organisation seeking to redress the balance. The Noble Wool Club, a collaboration between fabric producer Scabal and Woolmark, aims to highlight the use of superfine fibres and the skills of the farmers and weavers that bring them to market. Scabal, whose Huddersfield mill has been in production since the 1530s, is leading the pack with a 12-micron fibre, perfect for the softest, most luscious suiting fabric. This is not your chunky knit.

But the Club is as much about provenance and sustainability as the quality of the wares. To join, you have to be a producer of superfine fibres working under an exacting range of conditions. Farms must be family-owned, breeding sheep (typically Australian Merinos) based on heritage bloodlines that are fed on granite-based soils typically found 600m above sea level. With a focus as much on the land and the history behind the wool as the production, the Noble Wool Club is taking an approach that you could compare to that of French wine-growers and their terroir.

It's important to shout long and hard about British wool. Its quality is second-to-none. The heritage and history under which it is produced brings us a fabric created with pride and care. Wool's sustainable creds are not in question. It's about time we started looking at how we can use it more, in contexts outside the realm of the thick and itchy Christmas jumper. Our View: The Noble Wool Club is an admirable initiative that should do much to highlight an aspect of a great British fabric that often gets overlooked.

The Chemical Cocktails In Your Clothes

A disturbing report by researchers at Stockholm University has revealed that the chemicals used to make our clothes are hanging around for rather longer than we'd prefer.

In fact the research, led by anaytical chemist graduate Giovanna Luongo, (pictured above) found over a hundred identifiable compounds in clothes bought from high street retailers. In a press release, she said:

“Exposure to these chemicals increases the risk of allergic dermatitis, but more severe health effect for humans, as well as the environment, could possibly be related to these chemicals. Some of them are suspected or proved carcinogens and some have aquatic toxicity.”

Oof. So let's dig into what Giovanna and her team found. The chemical cocktails they discovered on our clothes can be split into two main types–'quick release' and 'slow release'. Quick release compounds wash off when they go in the machine. All fine and dandy, except that means that these chemicals end up in the water supply. Aquatic toxicity, remember? More worryingly, slow release compounds stay on the clothes, where they can be metabolised by skin bacteria or absorbed by the skin itself.

The chemicals present include quinolines, a suspected carcinogen linked to liver damage, and aromatic amines, found in tobacco smoke and diesel exhaust. Not what you expect to be rubbing up against when you pull on a shirt in the morning.

Just to add to the worry, even the organic cotton samples tested were found to contain benzothiozoles, which have been associated with respiratory problems. Does going eco make a difference? Well, yes, but not in a good way. Giovanna and her team found between 7 and 30 times the concentration of benzothiozoles in garments labelled as green alternatives. That even includes organic cotton.

The problem is, that Giovanna can't put her finger on what this all means. Some of the compounds her team found weren't even on the list of producer's approved substances. They could be byproducts, or accrued during transport. It's simply unclear where they came from.

So, should we be worried? The simple answer: no-one really knows. The last word on this comes from Conny Östman, a professor in analytical chemistry at Stockholm University.

"We have only scratched the surface, this is something that has to be dealt with. Clothes are worn day and night during our entire life. We must find out if textile chemicals go into our skin and what it means to our health. It is very difficult to assess and requires considerably more research.”

Our View–this is just another example of what can happen in a global supply chain that's so complex that proper oversight becomes impossible. Professor Östman is right. We should be prioritising the long-term effects of the chemicals that go into and, in some cases, stay on our clothes.

For more information, check out the Stockholm University press release, which has links to the science.

Success For SCAP

In Wednesday's post, I talked about the huge potential for ethical success in ECAP–a newly created cross-Europe initative to build a more sustainable textile industry. But this isn't a stand-alone idea. The plan is built on strong foundations. The UK's SCAP (Sustainable Clothing Action Plan) has been in operation for two years, aiming to make big reductions in water and carbon impact across the sector by 2020. At WRAP's annual convention this week, it became clear that action has been taken with a vengeance.

In just two years retailers, brands and organisations from across the clothing supply chain have reduced water impacts by a significant 12.5% per tonne of clothing, against a 15% reduction target by 2020. They are also making encouraging progress on a cut to carbon impacts, achieving a 3.5% reduction per tonne of clothing against a 15% reduction target. Did I say encouraging? It's hugely impressive!

Reaching the 2020 targets would make a huge dent in the UK's carbon deficit and water use figures. There could be an annual carbon saving equivalent to removing 250,000 cars from the road, a water saving equivalent to 170,000 Olympic sized swimming pools and 16,000 tonnes less waste created in the first place.

https://youtu.be/M3hReGi3ovE

In order to meet the SCAP 2020 targets, signatories (which make up over half of UK high street brands including, most recently, George at Asda) must focus on five main areas. They should increase the use of lower impact fibres; build product durability; help consumers care for clothing; guide those customers towards reducing waste to landfill (through WRAP’s consumer campaign Love Your Clothes) and work with supply chains to reduce waste. Like the recently announced ECAP, it's an ambitious plan with ambitious targets. So it's gratifying to see so much progress in such a short space of time.

It's important to note that engagement with customers is a vital part of the plan. After all, you can make all the changes to the supply chain that you like, but if the end user is still binning rather than recycling, all that hard work is for nothing. The Love Your Clothes campaign is a key component of the strategy. John Lewis uses LYC literature as part of its Learning Guide, helping Partners to pass on durability messages on the shop floor. Love Your Clothes recently sponsored Brighton Fashion Week, and Clothes Aid supports the campaign on its collection bags which can be found across the country.

Marcus Gover, Director at WRAP, said:

“SCAP signatories have made great progress against the targets to date, particularly water. This is a positive indication of what can be achieved and we must capitalise on the momentum we’ve built."

Our View: these results are very good news and show how engagement with an idea across business, government and charities can make a huge difference in a short space of time. With five years to go, who knows what could be achieved? All of a sudden, ECAP's ambitious targets don't seem at all unachievable!

Let's Get It Startas

I'm not going to lie to you. It has not been the greatest of summers. Ok, there's been a bit of sun, but overall it's not been t-shirt and flip-flop weather, has it?

Which means, for those of us who find casual is best, jeans and sneakers has been the look of the season. Which, of course, come with their own set of ethical pitfalls. Denim is notoriously water-wasteful–although research is ramping up nicely into ways to make the process less thirsty.

When it comes to footwear, you don't get more ubiquitous than the Converse Chuck Taylor Allstar. Recently revamped for the 21st century with a ton of new features, you see them everywhere. And although they're not bad in an ethical sense (parent company Nike have a surprisingly good record on CSR) you can do better.

Startas + Co began making canvas shoes in Croatia in the 1930s. Through turbulent times and giant geopolitical shifts, their factory in Vukovar made shoes that were iconic throughout Eastern Europe. Clean lined, pure and sharp. A look that defined the times.

In the early 90s, the factory sadly closed as the Berlin Wall fell and borders shifted. But now Startas + Co are back, with the same focus on quality and style at a great price. More importantly, they are produced to strict ethical and sustainable guidelines. Completely vegan, made in the same factory that Startas started in, the shoes are handmade from natural materials. Quirky design touches like differently coloured laces and detachable bows mean that Startas shoes stand out from the wannabes in this crowded market.

The company's recent UK launch focuses on women's shoes, with a curated range of classic looks. If you want to see more, they'll ship to the UK from their international site for a fee. The men's shoes have a certain sunny Euro-flair that I find quite pleasing.

Look, we might get an Indian summer yet. It's not quite time to haul out the heavy boots. If you're in the market for a pair of ethical and quirky bumpers to see you into the autumn, Startas + Co could be just the thing you're looking for.

Here's to the sunshine.

Source Brand Preview 2015: Ready To Go!

It doesn't seem like any time at all since the last Source Brand Preview, hosted by the Ethical Fashion Forum. And yet here we are, on the cusp of spring, and the first major event of the ethical fashion calender is almost upon us.
The Source Brand Preview is a brilliant way for suppliers, manufacturers and designers to showcase their wares, and for buyers and writers to check out what's new and exciting for spring and summer 2015. Best of all, rather than shlepping out to one of the typical trade fair venues, the show takes place entirely online. No need to leave the office (or, if you're like me, to get out of your joggers and slippers). Top tip: use GoTo Meeting on your smartphone or tablet, and you can literally take the show with you.
Using robust and proven conferencing tech, the Source Brand Preview guys are able to bring together a dazzling, world-wide array of participants that would otherwise have found it far too difficult and expensive to attend. This year's show features designers from as far afield as Africa, China and South-East Asia. Fashion is a global business, and the broad range of participants shows that off to a tee.
There's something for everyone at this year's show, whether you're interested in atelier, accessories or good old basics. The two days of the show mean that you can drill down into a detailed look at the full spectrum of what's on offer, or dip in and out as the mood takes you. Best of all, because it's all taking place online, every session is archived so you can catch up later--especially handy if you find other business gets in the way of that one session you really didn't want to miss. That includes conversations in the chat boxes, so if you need to recontact a supplier you met during the show, it's a snap to sort out.
It's tricky to sort out highlights with such a broad range of participants, but I'd expect to see some names familiar to View readers, like Riz Boardshorts. I'll be focussing on basics, menswear and atelier, but I'm ready and willing to be taken by surprise by what's on offer.
Best of all, registration is free! Places are limited, but a few are still available if you get a wiggle on. Buyers from Liberty's and John Lewis, and writers from Vogue all consider the Source Brand Preview worth a look. If you have any interest in modern ethical fashion, you need to check this one out. I'll be around mostly on Friday: do feel free to pop me a chat if you're in the mood.
For more, hit up the Ethical Fashion Forum. See you there!
http://source.ethicalfashionforum.com/article/brand-preview

Wool Week

Image by yr humble author

Wow, it comes round fast. Almost before you realise it we're into the last quarter of the year. For any discerning ethical blogger, that can only mean one thing. Early October, just when the weather is starting to close in and we begin to excavate our warm clothes from the back of the wardrobe, is when we celebrate Wool Week.
Why am I bleating on about wool? Well, it's a natural fibre that man has known and used since the Stone Age. We are yet to develop an artificial replacement that comes close to matching its unique all-weather properties.
It's renewable, of course. To make wool, all you need is grass and a sheep. Every year, said sheep will provide a new harvest. As wool is a fibre that is tied so closely to the natural environment, it behooves everyone involved in its production to safeguard the land on which sheep graze. It's also biodegradable: return wool to the soil and it will break down quickly and easily, with the added benefit of releasing nutrients as it goes.
Wool is a remarkable fibre. Let me drop a little science on you. It's hygroscopic, which means it absorbs and releases moisture in the form of water vapour. Heat generated as it does this makes the fibre a natural insulator. That also means it reacts to changes in body temperature, keeping you comfortable whatever the weather. It can soak up 30% of its own weight in moisture vapour, and it's odour resistant: handy for those long hikes over the hills when you might be getting a sweat on. It's breathable too, as the crimped structure of the fibre traps air pockets in the weave, which again helps to keep wool comfortable next to the skin.
It's easy to look after (the days of hand-wash only for wool items are long gone), keeps its shape for longer and inhibits bacterial growth. It doesn't promote allergies, it's fire-retardent and high in UV resistance. All that off the back of a sheep. This stuff is amazing.
This is before we talk about the multiple uses for wool: from clothing to insulation and soft furnishing, wool is uniquely, naturally versatile.
This Wool Week, retailers, manufacturers, designers and artisans are getting together to help us reconnect with this most extraordinary fibre, a treasure that springs from our beautiful countryside. There are new collections in fashion and interiors, a gathering of knitters and even a bike ride. No, I don't think you can make bicycles out of wool yet. But you know, I wouldn't be surprised if some bright spark found a way.
Wool Week continues for the rest of this week. To find out more, go to www.campaignforwool.org

Neil Young Stands Up For Organic Cotton

Neil Young has always been one of those artists that has gone his own way. For his critics, that shows him to be curmudgeonly, intractable. But Neil ignores them, and treads the path that he sees as most righteous. As you can tell, I'm a bit of a fan.
His latest move has endeared me to the guy even more. On his last tour of Europe, he gave out free organic-cotton t-shirts to the audience. It seems that was the opening salvo in a green offensive, as he recently outlined on his website. Neil is removing all traditional cotton promotional wear from his merchandising arm, and he's urgng his fans to do the same.
Neil takes time on his post to outline the reasons for the change, citing the heavy use of carcinogenic pesticides and water as major reasons to move away from traditional cotton. He mourns that hemp's not widely available enough to be used as yet. With the increasing relaxation in marijuana legislation, though, who knows?
He also has a few hints and tips for the care of your free t-shirt, noting that 75 to 80 percent of a garment's environmental impact comes from washing, drying and ironing. I've never seen the point of ironing t-shirts, so I'm glad that Neil Young and I think alike.
We shouldn't really be surprised by any of this: Neil Young's stance on the environment is well known. He recently supported a Kickstarter that allows retasked cell-phones to be planted in vulnerable forest areas, acting as an early warning system against illegal logging and poaching. But it's great to see such a major figure taking a radical stand to protect the earth.
Hang on. Pier32 have form with supplying organic cotton tees to bands and festivals. Maybe we should introduce ourselves...

Read Neil Young's post on his website here. You'll need to click through from the opening splash page.

Friday Pants

I want to talk to you about an important issue, my friends. It's something that affects us all, something that unifies and unites us. I want to talk about an item that we all own, that we take for granted, that deserves a little more love.

Today, I'm talking pants. 

Let's define our terms. The word "pants" in this context is not the American definition. My colonial friends, if you insist on using the word to describe "trousers", don't be surprised if we English stifle a childish snigger. For all right-thinking citizens of the world, when we say "pants", we mean "underwear." 

The thing is, underwear is just as much a fashion piece as any other item of clothing. And yet, it's the sector of the market that simply doesn't get as much attention or respect. Most Brits are happy to buy their pants in bulk, and supermarket pants seem to be an acceptable purchase for many. 

But think about it. Pants are there to cradle, coddle and flatter the most intimate and delicate of our man and lady parts. Why should we skimp on them? Why is it that we'll spend a fortune on a new pair of strides or a fancy dress, then underpin the ensemble with a greying pair of George from Asda grundies? 

No, my friends, we can do better than that. 

Nukleus are a company committed to the creation and manufacture of the finest ethical underwear. Their mission statement has sustainability and respect for their workers baked in. They have a partnership with the World Wildlife Fund, and seem serious and committed to the cause of better underpants for all. They're made from organic cotton, certified to be pesticide and toxin free. More importantly, they team their social conscience with good design. The clothes look good, feel good and do the planet good. 

The basics market is a tricky one, prone to a "that'll do" attitude from both designers and consumers. Maybe we just don't want to think too hard about pants. Maybe we should. Maybe we should all think really hard about pants today. 

Oh, look, OK. Part of the problem here is that pants are inherently hilarious. Our sense of humour is stuck in the playground and, no matter how good a job Nukleus do with their lovely pants, it's tough not to snigger. When Nukleus team a sales pitch like this: 

The earth does not belong to us. We belong to the earth.
The Earth Series is a sartorial masterpiece that honours the earth we walk on. Every stitch of the fabric, every shred of material, every loop of the needle that went into the making of this innerwear is a reminder that we have only one earth.

with an image like this:

you can see the problem. The difficulty with writing about pants is that you end up visualising people in their pants. And that, my friends, is always funny.

So, there we are. Pants. Good for the planet, good for your wobbly bits. Good for a writing exercise where I see how many times I can fit the word "pants" into one article.

Have a nice weekend.

Nukelus

Brand Preview: The Fashion Show Made Easy

The Ethical Fashion Forum's Brand Preview is the place to be if you want the latest trends and ideas for the year ahead. Stuffed to the gills with designers and innovators from Bangladesh to Bond Street, it's an eclectic and inspiring show, made all the more inviting for a couple of reasons. First, it's free to attend. Second, you can enjoy the whole shebang from the comfort of your sofa, with a cuppa, in your onesie.
The Brand Preview takes place entirely online, using the Citrix GoToMeeting platform. This means you can access it when and where you choose, dropping in and out as the mood takes you. It's robust enough that you can even use a tablet (which worked perfectly for me as a scribe on the go). And of course, the carbon impact is minimal. No shlepping across country to an anonymous conerence hall.
This is my second Brand Preview, and I'm always struck by the way in which you very quickly get a handle on the upcoming trends and schools of thought that tick at the heart of the business. If you want a primer into the ethos and philosophy of ethical fashion in an inclusive and non-elitist atmosphere, this is the place to go.
Let me give you a couple of examples from two of the seminars I attended (in my jammy bots, with the cat nudging at me for fuss). The Atelier show featured high fashion pieces finished to an extremely high standard. As I noted in my trends article last month, high-end fashion is increasingly taking note of the way ethical fashion rolls, and atelier is where the real innovators are to be found. As Jennifer of Eden Deodati, heading up the hour put it, fashion filters from the high end down. It will always slope from the catwalk to the high street. If it's trendy to be ethical, then the market will respond.
There was significant use of innovative materials: biodegradables such as PLA (made from corn starch) or Japanese paper. Bamboo seems to be everywhere. José Hendo showed her clever use of organic bark. Clothes were accessorised with sustainable materials like rubber and brass. Prints and dyes are back too, with some great new techniques, including rust. Yep, good old oxidised iron can be used to detail clothes.

There was, of course, a strong emphasis on social issues, and many of the exhibitors made a point of noting their work in empowering neglected and isolated communities and disenfranchised minorities. For example, Eden Diodati has started working with female survivors of the Rwandan genocide. Alongside that, there's a belief in merging traditional skills with modern techniques, and on training, allowing artisans to develop, expand and showcase the skills they have to offer. The eclectic nature of remix culture is especially playful in the atelier sector: why not as Ala Mairi showed, merge skills from Scottish and Pakistani artisans, mashing rich sub-continent colours with the solid structure of warm Northern European clothing?
Upcycling also seems to be a big deal at the bespoke end of the market. From Raggedy's textural, structured one-of-a-kind pieces to Recycle Style's use of materials like newspaper in theatrical, avant-garde ways, there's a real sense of paradigm shift -- changing the perception of what constitutes rubbish and what you can do with it.
One last point, which I think is especially pertinent for the expensive end of the market. Several exhibitors noted they were passionate about creating timeless pieces that can be worn again and again. This is a highly sustainable ethos, of course, but doubly important for a sector where high quality comes with a fat price tag. Thrift is the backbone of ethical fashion, and a shift away from the toxic habit of yearly trends which means you have to bin a wardrobe of perfectly good clothing just because Vogue tells you to can only be applauded.
I was especially keen to check out the ethical menswear hour, speaking as an ethical man that wears clothes. Here, too, there's plenty of forward thinking. There are some clear trends at play. Tailoring is becoming more important, as the 21st century gent rediscovers the joy of dressing up. A focus on colour and detailing means that there's no need to be bland, either: witness the eye-popping cuff linings on Arthur & Henry's beautifully made shirts. Tweed, that most sustainable of local fabrics, is also making a comeback. We're seeing the growth in popularity of sturdy clothes for dapper blokes.
Basics with an edge are going to be big in 2014, with companies like White T-Shirt Co. offering beautifully tailored tops and t-shirts in new fabrics that provide a superior fit and feel. With prints and graphics created using environmentally friendly dyes, be prepared to see ethical companies make big inroads into the high-end casual market.
Innovation in production techniques was high on the agenda. Cocccon, for example, uses spinning looms powered with solar cells. Keeping sustainability at the heart of the process is core to many companies showing at Brand Preview.

Bangladesh was, of course, on everyone's mind, and Rana Plaza has become a defining moment for the ethical fashion movement. It was great to see Rella, a company producing high-end tops and basics, based in Dhaka, Bangladesh. They have built a studio factory, insist on exemplary working conditions for their employees and are doing their utmost to show the industrial heartland of fashion how to do it right.
I'm skimming over the surface of a very dep pool of information and inspiration here. The good news is that you don't have to miss out on any of it. Hit up the Brand Preview page of the Ethical Fashion Forum for links to all the exhibitors, and audio downloads of the seminars. I can't urge you strongly enough: if you have any interest in ethical fashion, this is where you need to be.
Even if you are in your comfiest slippers.
THE SOURCE BRAND PREVIEW 2014

The House Of Wandering Silk

Sounds exciting, doesn't it? Like one of those gorgeous, colourful martial arts movies like The House Of Flying Daggers. Alas, there's no epic battle scenes or doomed romances to be had here.

That's not to say that The House Of Wandering Silk isn't of interest, though. Let's start off by talking about the material itself. Silk is a renewable material, made from the cocoons of insect larvae like the mulberry silkworm, which are boiled to extract and produce the fine thread we know of and treasure. The shimmering fabric has been used in Asia for thousands of years, and it's proven to last and last.

The House Of Wandering Silk is a social and ethical enterprise based in New Delhi. Founded as a way of bringing together artisans and producers to strike a fairer deal for silk workers in India, the House has also found that there are some methods, hitherto unknown to the west, of producing the fabric that produce astonishing results.

Waste silk is produced after the initial boil of the cocoon, when the desirable long thread has been extracted. The fibre that's left is shorter but thicker. The fabric that results from using waste silk is, bizarrely for something that's so clearly labelled as junk, extraordinarily luxurious. Hand spun and woven (unusual in silk production, as the thread is already there as part of the production process) the end is result is thick, highly textured and luscious.

Used to create traditional costumes cheaply, the House Of Wandering Silk are working with a husband-and-wife team who understand waste silk and know how to create stoles, wraps and scarves that are vibrantly coloured (the jewel-like shades they dye with works brilliantly with the natural warm beige of the silk) and utterly desirable. Not bad for a by-product that, until recently was thrown away as waste.

The House Of Wandering Silk is constantly innovating, and bringing products like bags and men's ties to market. Don't forget, Christmas will be with us soon. Why not keep an eye on the House Of Wandering Silk for a special gift for your loved one?

Find out more about the mysteries contained in The House Of Wandering Silk at their website.

Writing The Future On Paper No. 9

It's always important to be on the lookout for new innovations in fabric. After all, if we're ever going to move away from the ubiquity and toxic effects of cotton, we need to find something that can properly replace it, with the added benefits of a lighter ecological footprint.
Paper No. 9 are a New York-based startup that might just have the answer--or at least part of it. They've developed a process that turns paper into a sewable, hard-wearing fabric. We're not talking about the coated paper gowns with the embarrasing gap at the back that you see in hospital. This stuff is designed to last, and crafted to be luxurious.
Like many innovations, this new paper fabric has its roots in the past. More specifically, in 19th century Japan, where artisans developed kinkarakawakami, a wallpaper designed to mimic the look and feel of gilded leather. It's displayed, for example in some of the dining halls at Buckingham Palace.
Paper No. 9's material is free from complex polymers, and completely natural. It can be used in a wide range of applications, from clothing to interior design, and clients are asking for new ways to use it, from stationary to bags. This stuff is incredibly versatile, and can be tweaked to suit any use. It's available in different weights, transparencies and finishes. It's water-resistant, animal and toxin-free, created without the use of bleaches or stripping agents, and with minimal waste.
Sounds like a dream, right? Well, as with any dream, there's a wake-up call. The heavy artisinal focus of Paper No. 9's product range tells a story by itself. It's sold by the square foot. At the moment, they're simply too small to ramp up production to the mass market, and the product would suffer if they did. They remain exclusive, catering to a bespoke market and limited-edition production runs. There's no reason this can't change, of course. If the interest is there and the costs come down, I think there's room for Paper No. 9 in a world without cotton--a world where a mix of eco-friendly fabrics from PET to nettle to hemp are the norm. Paper No. 9 may not be the only answer to the stranglehold cotton has on the fashion industry, but it can certainly be part of the solution.
For more, check out the website.

Paper No. 9

Straight From The Source For 2013

If you needed any proof of the vitality of the ethical fashion sector (like this blog isn't enough for you?) then the first day of the Ethical Fashion Forum's Source Brand Preview 2013 should have been very convincing. It was jam-packed with presentations and talks from well-respected names and exciting young pioneers, all aiming to show that sustainability and eco-credentials are becoming a massively important watch word in markets worldwide.
It was a full day of events, covering new and established brands, luxury and bridal wear, and for the first time, an hour on menswear. As a stylish and sophistomocated chap it was good to see my needs finally being catered to. Let's not mention the Angry Birds pants I'm wearing today.
There are some distinct trends emerging in ethical fashion. Top players are diversifying and expanding their ranges, and tailoring their goods to specific markets. At the same time, we're seeing a lot of cultural fusion, whether in the design of the clothes, or in the way the entrepreneurs are interacting with their factories and manufacturers. This is really important--decent communication with artisans from different cultures ensures smooth running of the production line. Brands like Choolips and Lalesso stress the importance of effective collaboration. Annagret of Choolips goes further, chatting with everyone involved in the creation of the her funky Africentric clothing to make sure they're comfortable with how things are run. There needs to be a balance between the cutting-edge process a lot of these young guns are using, and the deep traditions of the artisans that are making them.
There's a real sense of concentration on fit, comfort and finish, especially in the eco-luxe brands. More than one attendee noted that Fairtrade and good practice need to be an underlying principle rather than the main reason for buying the clothes. Claire Lissaman for shirt-maker Arthur And Henry pointed out that she wasn't just aiming her clothes at the eco-concsious male, but at the man who wanted a really good, long-lasting shirt for work.
Longevity seems to be a keyword, tying into Pier Crush Vivienne Westwood's mantra of "Buy Less. Choose Well. Make It Last." Finnish designer Anniina Nurmi is making jeans for men and women from a solid cotton/hemp mix. They're built to last, and simply styled to stay on trend season after season.
There was a real determination to smash preconceptions about Fairtrade, and many designers at the preview were pushing clothes that had sharp silhouettes and edgy styling. There's nothing wrong with bold ethnic prints and loose fit, but it's good to have a choice. I especially liked Kowtow's clever, angular basics and 8045's clean-lined menswear.
There were some real innovators at the event. It was great to hear from Ann Runnel of Reet Aus, who's figured out a way to use textile waste at a mass-market scale, creating patchwork skirts and jodhpurs on a huge production line in Bangladesh. José Hendo's is exploring the use of different fabrics from surprising places. She's the first designer to source her organic cotton and hemp entirely from the UK, and she's innovative in her use of barkcloth from Uganda. This is a traditional material that, as the name suggests, is made from a particular treebark. Eminantly sustainable (a fresh harvest from the same trees every year) and desirable to boot--in Uganda, tribal elders and kings wear clothes made from barkcloth. It has the look and feel of suede, apparantly.
It was nice to see some Pier chums at the event too: Katie from Mantis World revealed a massive expansion in their range, and the launch of a new wholesale arm. Pants To Poverty showed off their new collection of lounge and sleepwear, and showed how the last year has shown them move from a minor player to a big noise in the ethical marketplace. And it's always nice to see Nancy Dee and their feminine, flattering vintage silhouettes--a classic look with a modern twist.
I've barely scratched the surface of the goodies at the Brand Preview, and the good news is, it's not over yet. The event continues today, looking at jewellery, lingerie and footwear. Look out for Pier chums like Katcha Bilek and Blysia. The event is online, free to register and you can pick up from anywhere with an internet collection.
If you can't make the time today, the streams and Powerpoints are available to browse and download at your leisure. Now, you can't say fairer than that, can you?
The 2013 Source Brand Preview is the place to be to find out about how this year is shaping up in ethical fashion. The synopsis? It's looking GOOD.
The 2013 Source Brand Preview.

Shaking And Stirring Up The Red Carpet with Naomie Harris

The Red Carpet, Green Dress initiative, judged by Pier Crush Vivienne Westwood, has a winner, and a star and walk the winning design down the red carpet at this year's Oscar ceremony.

Ghanaian-born designer Michael Badger has won the competition, launched in 2010 by Suzi Amis Cameron, wife of "Avatar" director James Cameron, to help promote ethical and sustainable behaviour in fashion. His design, which beat out some ferocious competition, will be worn by Bond beauty Naomie Harris at the awards. It seems the stars of Skyfall have eco-cred to spare--Naomie's co-star, Javier Bardem, wore a Gucci organic-cotton tux and shirt, and a recycled satin tie to the film's London premiere.

Michael will now be working closely with Vivienne to get his design ready for the awards on February 24th. The dress will be created on cradle-to-cradle principles, and certified by a co-sponsor of this year's competition, the Cradle To Cradle Products Innovation Institute.

Congrats to Michael, and here's to seeing more designs like his on the red carpet soon!

For more on Red Carpet Green Dress and this year's winner, go to the website.

Put A Cork In It...

...or more accurately, put it in some cork. Although Pier32's Mobile Blogging Solution is a highly evolved and effective method for getting the latest in ethical fashion and charity news out to everyone, yr. humble writer is always interesting in seeing what other options are out there for him and his trusty iPad.
Let us then consider the sexy, angular new case from Pomm Design. Crafted entirely from sustainable, eco-friendly cork, the iCorkCase is a simple and elegant solution to the eternal dilemma of how to keep your beloved slab of tech safe and clean.

Naturally shock-absorbent and biodegradable, cork is the ideal choice for an increasing range of products, particularly as the traditional market for the material - wine bottle closure - is under threat from screw-top and plastic corks. Take, for example, Nike's latest trainer, the LeBron X. Designed to celebrate the ten-year anniversary of the basketball player's association with the sportswear giant, the shoe features an upper made entirely from cork. Breathable, water-resistant and supple, this is not just a gimmick. Cork has been used in shoe manufacture since the 14th century, and its naturally shock-absorbent qualities make it the ideal choice for high quality, comfortable footwear.
I'll pop open a bottle to celebrate that!

Smoking Out A New Use For Tobacco

Recent legislation in Australia that's likely to be copied across the planet shows the humble cigarette to be an increasingly endangered species. As branding on fag packets devolves into a simple brand name teamed with a big, full colour picture of a seeping, tar-filled lung, you have to wonder whether the tobacco industry has a future at all.

Ploughboy Organics thinks that it does, although not in the way you'd think. The company, based in North Carolina, has found that there's a heck of a lot more that you can do with the tocacco plant then dry the leaves and smoke them. The stalks, once considered to be field waste, produce durable, sustainable fibres that can produce an antimicrobial fabric. Use it by itself, or team it with other organic fibres like wool or even nettle for a real mix of looks and feels.

That's not all. The plant can also provide dyes that are non-toxic, and use less water and lower temperatures to fix, reducing environmental impact. The colours are strikingly vibrant, from an eye-pinging cyan to a rich burgundy hue they call Carnelian.

Basically, what we have here is a breakthrough that converts one our great evils into a renewable, sustainable resource. If everything that Ploughboy and its CEO Susanne DeVall is true, then tobacco could render the Greenpeace Detox agreement to be pointless. This, from Ploughboy's latest press release:

"The company’s goal is to produce low cost organic dyes and fiber for the global marketplace utilizing raw materials that are free from chemical agents and pesticides — which negatively impact our environment. An overriding philosophy for the organization is the commitment to sustainable agricultural practices and responsible manufacturing processes from the field to the finished product."

Sounds pretty good, huh? At the moment, Ploughboy are keeping their cards close to their chest in regards to what these processes might actually be. I hope that there's not an announcement of hoax waiting in the wings. But if not, then this is another example of an alternative fibre that could transform not just the apparal industry, but the way we look at the production of fabric on a worldwide scale. Ploughboy are thinking big, and their excitement is palpable.

Why smoke it when you can wear it?



For more, get over to the Ploughboy Organic site.

Checking The Market For Organic Cotton

There's worrying news from the organic cotton sector, with word arriving of a nearly 40% drop in production in the last year.

The latest report from sustainability thinktank Textile Exchange shows 2011 was a rollercoaster ride for organic cotton. Production was down 37%, particularly in India which is the heaviest producer of the fabric. This drop in available product came at the same time as some of the heaviest users of organic cotton, particularly H&M, C&A and Nike, had all indicated that they intended to use more of it in their clothing.

The reasons for the sharp drop in production are interweaved into each other, a snarled web of circumstance. Premiums for organic cotton have been squeezed over the last couple of years, and farmers have been given annual instead of long-term contracts--all of which have led to the growers moving away from cotton and towards crops that could actually earn them a profit.

In short, the manufacturers that claim they want to use more organic cotton are not giving the incentives to the people who actually grow the stuff that they need. The report calls this a "supply and demand disconnect". I call it the obvious byproduct of both ends squeezing the middle too hard.

It's not all bad news, though. The report also outlines the way in which conventional cotton farming is improving in environmental, social and sustainable ways, and the growth in markets outside India. West Africa and Central Asia are all areas that could see significant growth in organic cotton production in the years ahead.

The report makes for fascinating, if dense reading. It's available for free download from Textile Exchange.

The 2011 Organic Cotton Market Report from Textile Exchange. 

Tasteful Jewellery

Who remembers RingPops? They were (in fact they still are) pieces of chunky, garish jewellery made of fruit flavoured hard candy. Wearing a Ring Pop was the only time until the rap era that boys could get away with wearing outrageously huge diamond rings. Finding a girl that was willing to have a lick on it was, of course, an extra added bonus.
I digress. I have a feeling that Young Ju Do, a recent graduate from the Central St Martins School Of Art And Design, has at least a passing recollection of the fruity, wearable treats of yore. The aim of her MA project was to create a range of home-compostable jewellery and accessories. The end results are dayglo-colourful and lots of fun. They look like rave-style resin pieces.
But the comparison with Ring Pops becomes clearer once Ju explains that she's created the pieces from edible materials. Containing a balanced mix of "brown" and "green" bio-material, once you're done with your jewellery they'll make a yummy treat--not for you, but for the micro-organisms and bugs on your compost heap. The pieces are designed to break down and provide sustenance for a wide range of bugs and helpful bacteria, helping your garden to flourish.
Ju's work is deeply informed by cradle-to-cradle theory. She wants to help create a new kind of throwaway culture, where products have a second life outside the retail cycle. It's a well-thought-out and beautifully executed project, and Ju's jewellery is funky and charming. She might want you to throw the pieces onto the compost heap, but I have a feeling that the discerning green fashionista will want to hang onto them.
And, unlike Ring Pops, they're not going to go sticky in your pocket and collect fluff.
For more, check out Young Ju Do's website.

Flying The Flag: ethically, of course!

Fashion and the Olympics have never been an easy fit, and the 2012 London Games are no exception. Adidas, main supplier of clothing to Team GB has found itself mired in revelations of the sweatshop conditions under which their sportswear has been made. If only there was a way of showing our support for the British team without supporting unethical practices...

Here's a suggestion. Artist Rob Ryan, best known for his bright, detailed papercut and screen print work, has teamed up with fair trade accessory specialists NV London Calcutta to produce the limited edition "Small Girl" scarf. Made of silk, probably the most ethical of materials, the red, white and blue colour way gives you a chance to support the team without covering yourself in Union Jacks.

I'll be looking more at ethical alternatives to the approved Olympic wear over the next couple of weeks, but the Small Girl scarf seems like a classy place to start.

Bag your Small Girl scarf at the NV London Calcutta website.

In Stroud, they say Pants To Poverty

As part of our campaign to stay as far away from Jubilee celebrations as possible, we took a trip out to rural Gloucestershire, and the pretty market town of Stroud. Stroud has a great reputation for food and a thriving market in sustainable, locally produced goods. I can heartily recommend Mill's Cafe, who do a fine bacon and mushroom quiche - baked by the life partner of the guy that runs an Aladdin's cave of a cookshop across the way.
But we're here to talk about fashion, and in particular, pants. A visit to the Stroud on Water festival, taking place on a refurbished stretch of the Stroudwater Navigation led us, almost by accident, to a stall staffed by two enterprising young lads called Sam and Moses.

They run a franchise of Pants To Poverty, an English company who specialise in ethical underwear. Their pants and socks are made from cotton farmed by a collective in Hyderabad, and manufactured in a factory nearby that prides itself on its low-impact environmental policies and close work with their workers and the community in general. PtP takes their mission, to get the best pants possible into the hands and onto the asses of people worldwide, very seriously.
The pants aren't cheap, but then they are extremely high quality. 95% organic cotton with a touch of elastene for support and stretch, they are very soft and very comfortable. I speak from experience. I'm wearing a pair as I write this. Here at The Pier, we believe in putting our money where our mouth is, and we weren't about to leave Sam and Moses hanging.

Pants For Poverty products are available online, and at many discerning independent outlets across the country. For more, check out the website.
Thanks to Sam and Moses for indulging the strange, excitable chap with the camera. Hope I didn't freak you out too much, lads.
Photos by Clare at Clarevision.
Pants To Poverty